I recently wanted to add fog lights to my Neon and did some searching and found a how-to that people seem to follow here to so I read it over planning to use it. I wanted my fog lights to come on with my parking lamps so I could use them as driving lights, as I do on many cars, like my Dakota, which has this feature from the factory. This how-to accomplished that, but I noticed that the fog lights would also be on with the high beams. This is illegal in most states that I know of, and I’ve been warned about it before in the past, even at inspection stations, because I’ve had a couple cars I set up this way. The second problem I have with this how-to is that is says that your fog lights will shut off if you turn the dimmer switch down too far. The first word that came to mind when I read this was “ghetto”. No offense meant to the original poster of that how-to, but there are better ways to do it, while keeping both the factory features, such as turning them off with your high beams, being able to use your dimmer, as well as achieving the ability to have the fog lights on with your parking lights.

So I set off to figure out how this had to be done. If you decide to follow this how-to, keep in mind I am not responsible for your mistakes or lack of electrical knowledge. If this how-to confuses you in anyway, do not proceed. I suggest you have a Haynes/Chilton’s manual or factory wiring schematic handy to aid you in the wire colors and their locations. I will list them as best as I can, but again, use this at your own risk. Read the entire how-to before you start doing any work.

This how-to uses a factory fog light/defroster switch which you may be able to find on eBay. I got mine there for about $15. Well worth it if you want to keep your factory look inside. You will need the switch, the pigtail (plug with some length of wire) for the fog light side. You can use your original defroster wiring and plug it right into the new switch. I used tap connectors for several of my connections and I believe they’re adequate for this application, but if you’d rather solder, go for it. I recommend disconnecting your battery before you start, as some circuits on the headlight switch will be hot at all times if you don’t. I also only recommend using no more than 55W fog lights for this set-up. This is because the BL/BK wire on the fog light switch is not rated for higher current applications and if you use let’s say, two 100W bulbs; you will definitely be overloading this wire.

Wire Color Legend
BL - Blue
BK - Black
OR - Orange
GR - Green
VIO - Violet
WH - White
YL - Yellow
LT BLU - Light Blue

Note: Wires that are multiple colors list the first color as the main color, and the second color as the stripe.

If you swapped bumpers and are using factory foglights, you can tap the BL/BK wire into the LT BLU/WHT wire in the harness for the foglights and use the factory plugs which are already tied up behind your bumper instead of folloing step 4. You can also skip step 2 because the negative leads in the factory fog light harness are already connected somewhere in the car's harness. If you are installing foglights from scratch, read and follow all steps carefully.

Step 1: Mount your fog lights in your desired location.

Step 2: Run the negative leads to a chassis ground that’s fairly close by. There are some existing grounds near the fenders that are easily accessible. I ran a separate one for each light, but you really don’t have to, you can splice them together if you wish. I ran two to avoid losing both lights if you have a bad connection on one wire. Leave the positive leads alone for the moment.

Step 3: At the factory fog light switch, splice the following wires together with the wires that are on the defroster. Splice together the OR wire from the fog light switch to the OR wire of the defroster. This is the dimmer feed. Then splice the BK/OR wire to the BK/GR. This is your ground for the switch.

Step 4: Run the BL/BK wire out to the positive wiring for your fog lights. I used an inline fuse here; you can use 14 or 16ga wire to go to the fog lights, and run through a grommet in the firewall. I also used loom over all of the wires that were running through the engine bay. That’s up to you, but it looks nice and adds protection to the wires.

WARNING: If you follow step 5 and 6, it will allow your fog lights to be on with your high beams. I included this for those who either do not care about having a legal set-up or live in an area where it does not matter. I am not responsible for your tickets if you get one, you’ve been warned. If you want the fog lights to shut off when your high beams are on, SKIP steps 5 and 6 and move on to step 7.

Step 5: Run the VIO/WH wire over to the headlight/parking light switch inside the car. Find the BK/YL wire at the back of the headlight switch (you will need to remove the switch from the dashboard.) This is the parking light feed. Using this will ensure your lights will come on with your parking lights. The fog light switch will have power whenever the parking lights are on. Again, if you didn’t disconnect your battery, there are wires on this switch that are hot at all times. Be safe, just disconnect the battery.

Step 6: Splice the WH/OR wire into the VIO/WH wire. Reassemble your dash, double check your connections and test the operation of your fog lights. You are now finished with this how-to, unless you want your fog lights to shut off with your high beams.

The following steps should be used if you want to maintain factory operation, meaning your fog lights will turn off while your high beams are on. You should have ignored steps 5 and 6. You will need a relay for this application with a normally closed (N.C.) contact on it. I got mine at Advance Auto Parts for $11. Part number R3177. The normally closed contact is crucial for this to work; it can NOT be a normally open.

Step 7: Mount your relay in a convenient spot under your dash. I mounted mine on the opposite side of the heater vents in the center of the dash.

Step 8: Run a wire from the positive side of the relay coil to the RD/OR wire at the turn signal/hi/low beam switch. I also used an inline fuse here. I found the wire a little further down in the harness so I didn’t have to remove the column cover. This is the high beam feed and will energize the coil of the relay when you turn your high beams on. Run another wire from the negative side of the relay coil to a chassis ground. There are two located nearby under the heater vent that are already there.

Step 9: Run the VIO/WH wire to one side of the normally closed contact on the relay.

Step 10: Run a wire from the other side of the normally closed contact to the BK/YL wire at the back of the headlight switch (you will need to remove the switch from the dashboard.) Also run the WH/OR wire to this same point.

What will happen here is when you turn high beams on; it energizes the relay, opening the connection for the VIO/WH wire to the fog light switch, turning them off. When you turn your low beams back on, this connection is re-established and the fog lights will turn on again. You will even be able to see this operation on the green light on the fog light switch itself.

Reassemble your dash and test operation of your fog lights. You are done.

 

Thank you for the detailed post! While I have not put any thought into adding fogs to my Neon, it is nice to know that if I decide to, I will have an excellent guide to help me.

Mucho Gracias!

 

thanks for the info. i put the factory fogs on my car and wired it like yours but they only work with low beams. going to get the relay 2morrow and rewire the switch.

 

How is it wired now? The fogs shut off with the high beams the way you have it now?

 

I think he is saying his are working like the stock neon fogs which means they only come on if the low beams are on... i'm now thinking of moding my factory foglights using your info so that they also will come on when just the parking lights are on but will shut off when the high beams are on... most cops around here won't mess with ya if your fogs and your high beams are on... but it only takes one cop having a bad day to put ya in a world of hurt....

 

That's what I figured. The how-to is centered around not having any foglights at all before hand.

If you have factory foglights and you want them to work like mine, I would think that steps 7-10 would work, but don't quote me, I'm not 100% sure because I've never done it on a car with a factory setup. My car had no foglights when I did this. Keep in mind to cap the unused end of the VIO/WH wire, since it won't be the source anymore, but will be hot at times(low beams?).

If it does work, let me know I will add that note to the how-to for the rest of those who might want to do that.

 

lol yeah i figured 7-10 will at least help me with trying to do it lol... might have to change stuff a lil more have to see when i tear into it but deff makes a good write up... when i do it i'lll snap some pics cause some people need pictures

 

If you wanted yours to be on with your high beams as well with you stock setup, you could just do steps 5 and 6 instead, no need for the relay at that point. It's up to you.

I thought about taking pics, but as I was doing it, everything was pretty simple and the color coding of the wires made it easy, so I didn't bother. I figured I was detailed enough in the wording to allow for no pics.

 

my car didn't come with fog i put them on when i swaped front bumpers. mine is wired like urs except for they only come on with low beams.

 

thanks for the help, took a little longer than expected cause my brother's a genius. he decides to help me and ends up bypassing the switch all together.lol


also i don't think u mentioned the WH/OR wire in the part with the relay. it needs a hot wire (constant or ignition) for the switch to work.

and if wanted the fogs to toggle between cutting off with high beams and working with high beams u could put the ground on the relay to a switch!

USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.