How do i check fault codes?
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03-24-2010, 06:44 AM
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How do i check fault codes?
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03-24-2010, 09:27 AM
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I checked the description but i dont really understand what it means
Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
My car has 93k so is it telling me the timing belt needs changing soon?
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03-24-2010, 09:32 AM
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03-24-2010, 09:39 AM
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I only got the car yesterday. I drove it 50 miles home without a problem. Ran fine, didnt overheat. I checked the coolant and couldnt even see the line so i topped it up and went out. I tried to accelerate in 5th gear and the car didnt want to budge from 40mph. I had my foot down for about 10 seconds then slowly after sticking exactly at 40mph it started to accelerate. Weird.
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03-24-2010, 11:53 AM
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Code 11 is usually one of the following things:
1) timing belt slipped due to wear, age, etc. This can cause a loss of power and more importantly, if it slips further, can actually damage your engine (valves, etc.) as it is an interference engine.
Easy to check. If your car is SOHC, there is a plastic plug in the timing belt cover that you can remove. Remove spark plug #1 and manually rotate the engine to put the #1 cylinder at TDC (put a coat hander rod down the spark plug hole to see if the piston is at the top) then check the alignment of the marks on the camshaft sprocket with the mark on the top of the timing cover, and if they are aligned, you are fine. I don't know the exact procedure for checking a DOHC off the top of my head, but I know someone else on this forum does.
2) camshaft position sensor going bad or bad connection - I had a break in one of my wires to the sensor that I had to fix, but the sensor was fine.
3) crankshaft position sensor going/gone bad. This was what I also found AFTER I fixed the problem above. Bad wiring and connections are also a common problem on a neon as the wires tend to rub and wear due to where they are located.
You can get the detailed error P codes by going to a local parts store and getting them to connect an ODB-II reader to your computer. That can sometimes help pinpoint what is going on - but not always.
If the car has never had a timing belt replaced (or if you don't know and/or cannot find out), then 93K is way overdue for a replacement. Make sure to replace not only the belt, but the idler pulley too. I would even say replace the water pump as you don't want a 93K pump going out on you in 10 ~20K miles causing you to have to do it all over again - and it costs about $40 bucks to gain peace of mind.
1) timing belt slipped due to wear, age, etc. This can cause a loss of power and more importantly, if it slips further, can actually damage your engine (valves, etc.) as it is an interference engine.
Easy to check. If your car is SOHC, there is a plastic plug in the timing belt cover that you can remove. Remove spark plug #1 and manually rotate the engine to put the #1 cylinder at TDC (put a coat hander rod down the spark plug hole to see if the piston is at the top) then check the alignment of the marks on the camshaft sprocket with the mark on the top of the timing cover, and if they are aligned, you are fine. I don't know the exact procedure for checking a DOHC off the top of my head, but I know someone else on this forum does.
2) camshaft position sensor going bad or bad connection - I had a break in one of my wires to the sensor that I had to fix, but the sensor was fine.
3) crankshaft position sensor going/gone bad. This was what I also found AFTER I fixed the problem above. Bad wiring and connections are also a common problem on a neon as the wires tend to rub and wear due to where they are located.
You can get the detailed error P codes by going to a local parts store and getting them to connect an ODB-II reader to your computer. That can sometimes help pinpoint what is going on - but not always.
If the car has never had a timing belt replaced (or if you don't know and/or cannot find out), then 93K is way overdue for a replacement. Make sure to replace not only the belt, but the idler pulley too. I would even say replace the water pump as you don't want a 93K pump going out on you in 10 ~20K miles causing you to have to do it all over again - and it costs about $40 bucks to gain peace of mind.