Here is a little item that happened to me yesterday. I was driving into work as usual when all of a sudden, the car lost power and started to slow down. I downshifted, was still losing power, and even after downshifting to 2nd, it slowed down and started chuffing, so I pulled over and sure enough it just died. I got out and checked all the connections and nothing had popped loose, and trying to crank it was all for naught. So I called for a tow truck and sat on my keister waiting.....

After about 45 minutes, I was bored, so I said "well, lets see what happens now, and this time, it fired right up." Yea! and Boo! all at the same time. Yea in that it is not a major internal component failure problem and going to be a major cost and fixing PITA, but boo! I still have to wait for the tow truck because I cannot try to drive it home and have it fail again and then call them again.....Also, it screwed me out of a day's work......

Got it home, checked for any error codes, none found. Started thinking, well, I haven't replaced the fuel filter and if it got clogged, it could be the problem, and since I was able start the car after it had time to lose fuel pressure, that may be it. So I replaced the fuel filter (my car is a 95 model and it cost $28 total), put some SeaFoam into the tank, and took a chance this morning driving it to work (52 miles one way). So far so good. If it fails again, I will replace the fuel sending unit (about $200 total). If there is any more to this story later on, I will update the thread then. I wanted to post this because I have read many other posts that have had a similar reported problem (sudden death then restart later), but did not have the "final" solution posted and if this helps someone, great!

 

You are on the right track. Same happened with my last two 96 neons. You "should" be good to go from here as far as that is concerned.

 

Well, it died again. Fortunately I saw the oil light pop on and was able to quickly get off the road into a convenient parking lot.

While I waited, I played the fuel pump relay swap game - no change. Then swapped with the ASR relay - no change. No cranky....

Waited about 10 minutes, it fired right up so I immediately started for home. Got almost home and it croaked again. This time I was at my daughters' high school, so I "stole" her car! Ha!

I bought a fuel pump on my way to work, so I have that to look forward to.

 

Before I put the $200 part on my car, I decided to double check all the other crap that it could be. You need spark, fuel and air. I know I don't have an air problem, spark and fuel are left. I already replaced the fuel filter.

I did the key dance (even though my CEL was not on and the ODB-II reader gave no error codes), and lo and behold I had an error code 11 stored in the PCM. Well, I decided that I would just go ahead and replace the crank sensor sensor since I have a lifetime warranty on it. I didn't check it out, just went ahead and did it. Again, better safe then sorry, and only cost me time, no money. I also double-checked the timing - it was dead on.

I double checked all the wires on that harness while I was under the car to make sure I don't have any worn or damaged wires (O2's, crank sensor, oil pressure sending unit, VSS, camshaft, coil, EGR, temp, alternator) and did a continuity check too where I could.

Then, I did a through check of the spark plug wires, coil wires and coil pack. The primary on my coil was out of spec by just a little bit, but again, this is my DD and I need it to be reliable, so I went ahead and replaced the coil pack.

Then after all that, I still have some issues with the car just dying when I slow down to stop and push in the clutch, but it now will immediately start right up - so there is a change in behavior here. I fixed one (or more) problem, but now have this one.

I decided to go ahead and put in the new fuel pump. Not a fun job and I hope I don't ever have to do it again - Yuck! Now I did notice an immediate smoothing of acceleration and a better idle, and I think just a little more power and pickup, it still did not remove the phantom dying issue while slowing to a stop.

Then this morning on my way to work, I think I stumbled on what may be the problem, a clutch safety switch going bad (or out of adjustment - if that is possible).

The only time my car has the problem is when I am slowing down (red light, stop sign, idiot driver pulling out in front of me and then bebopping along, etc.) and I have to push in the clutch to downshift or pop in neutral. If I don't completely mash it to the floor, it sometimes dies, but so far, everytime I completely mash the clutch to the floor, it has not died.

Now, here are my questions.
A) does this sound plausible? Does the engine think it is stalling out because it does not properly sense the pedal being depressed?

B) Can the switch get out of adjustment?

C) Should I have to mash the clutch to the floor (even though I can easily change gears without doing so)?

D) Should I just replace the darn thing and see what happens?

 

I wouldn't think that the clutch switch would have any function while the car is already running for anything other than cancelling of cruise control. Other than that, the only function it should have it is letting you start the car. After that, it should be irrelevant.

Looking at my Haynes manual verifies this as the "clutch pedal position switch" as they call it has no relation to any other circuit other than the starter. They don't show any relation to the cruise control, but I believe this is incorrect as if there wasn't, then your car would continue to attept to accelerate after you push your clutch in, so they may have jumpered it in series with the brake switch well. But still, shouldn't be effecting you in the way you describe.


Do you have a spare PCM or access to one you can try?

 

Well then can someone else suggest an idea? The only time it may or may not occur now is when I press the clutch to slow down (like pulling up to a light or sign, etc). It does not do it every time, it does not matter if it is to the floor as I thought earlier. In fact, it only did it once today - while coming up to a light.

 

OK....progress.....yeah....


Getting some error codes and some bad behavior now. The car will buck and jerk while trying to run at lower speeds in lower gears now.

Significant key dance error codes are:

15 (my connector to my VSS keeps hopping off because the connector is broke - I'm trying to find a "good" one to fix it).

21, 25, 51 - all dealing with IAC issues and/or upstream O2.

ODB-II error codes:
P0500
P0135
P0171
P1294

BTW, it does not matter about the clutch, it randomly dies when going from cruise to stop whenever it likes. No pattern other then slowing down to stop, it may or may not die. Then I just crank it right back up and keep going.


I haven't had time to find out what each of these mean or what causes them. Working WAY to much overtime right now, and I don't get paid for it either.

 

Status update.

Took off the throttle body, cleaned the hell out of it and replaced the Throttle position sensor while I was at it.

Cleaned the MAF sensor.

Replaced the upstream O2 sensor.

Now, the only error code I get is 15 and P0500 (VSS related) as I cannot keep the frakking connector on due to it being busted.

The car no longer bucks and jumps, power is back, idle is smooth (even with the A/C on), acceleration is better, throttle response is MUCH improved, gas is no longer being poured into the system and the gas smell is gone when idling at a stop sign/red light. When I go up and down the mountain, I no longer have to downshift into 3rd, but can stay in 5th (or for a little more goose power - drop to 4th).

The only remaining problem I have (besides the frakking VSS issue) is that it still just randomly dies when decellerating from cruise. I can immediately crank it back up and it runs and idles fine, but every so often, it will just die when I press in the clutch to slow down. It does not do it every time, it just does it randomly.

At this point, is it a fuel issue or a fire issue? With no error codes, how do I scope it out? Does Dodge have a computer they can attach to my car while it runs to diagnose it? I know Ford does, but does Dodge?

 

i didnt read through everyones replys cuz my 95 was having the same problem and i bought the idle air control motor couldnt get the throatle body off and ended up putting the vaccume line on farther then it was when i took it off and it didnt die at all cuz mine was dieing when id come to a stop then i replaced the line completely and it dosent die anymore

 

Sounds good. Which line did you replace? I would absolutely love it to be a vacuum line problem.