OK, I'm off to get another crank sensor; I'll let you know the outcome!

 

So I installed that crank sensor but still no spark. I reinstalled the orginal PCM along with the new sensor, still no spark.

Any other idea's??

 

scrap prices are up.

do you have a scanner,

do you have a wiring diagram

do you have an oscilloscope

do you have a factory service manual?

get these 4 items and dig in... now it's time to have a professional actually look at your problem cuz the internet isn't going to be able to solve this without more digging.... 99% of the neons I get through the shop with no start is due to crank sensor/or it's plug.

 

you need a cam sensor not a crank sensor. 2 diffrent types of sensors there

 

I have replaced both cam and crank sensors.

 

Well because I replaced the cam and crank sensors, do you think it is the pcm or are you thinking the wiring. I might just have to take it in, I am about to give up. I have a FSM, which has some wiring diagrams, a obdII reader, but no oscilloscope.

If it is a pcm, I would have bad luck we got 2 from a junk yard and niether work.

I'm going to check over the wires one more time, I'll even slice on a new end to the crank and cam sensor if needed.

**that reminds me, what I replaced the cam sensor the new cam sensor had a new connector in it so i spilced the wires (color for color) and installed. Maybe something is wrong with the connector. **

 

obd2 code readers are useless the don't have data stream.

seems odd that it ran before you fixed it.

in all my years wrenching, I can count all the computers I ever had go bad on one hand. and 2 were caused by people jump starting reversing the leads.

Spark is all generated by the signal from ONLY the crank sensor. even if you unplug the cam sensor, you'll still have spark. Cam sensor syncs injector sequence.

 

I think this year if the pcm doesn't receive a signal from the cam it won't send the voltage to the asd relay to power the coil pack. When I unplugged the cam sensor it only allowed ground to be send to the coil pack.

I guess I left out some important info. When I removed the coil pack there was a huge crack in the upper right top corner. When the car was running I reached over there (not touching)....and was shocked pretty bad. The car ran for another 4 minutes fine, and then just died. I thought maybe the coil pack was arching to the bolt that holds the coil pack in place the worked its way to the pcm.

As I mentioned, I replaced my pcm with 2 other pcm’s and same result.
I just finished checking the grounds to the senders along with signal to pcm and both have continuity and zero ohm’s.

One last thing I checked was the timing. I forgot that I put a mark (with pen) the TDC of the belt when it was intune with the BTDC. I was attempting to take off part of the timing cover and the belt is in the exact same location that it was when I timed it. So unless the pin shear off and the cam didn’t rotate with the cam gear than all is good with that.

And by the way thanks for all the suggests thus far!!!

 

the crank sensor reads off a trigger wheel on the crank. as long as the sensor see and broadcasts a crank signal, you'll have spark if the computer is working.

 

So pcm? I guess I'm having a hard time trying to wrap my brain around the fact the other 2 pcm's didn't fire.