Well, having a battery light staying on...

1.I replaced the battery
2. I replaced the altanator--around 14 volts while car is running


Now the battery will not stay charged even with the altanator running fine...there is no check engine liight thrown...

I know it sounds possibly like a ground problem..or direct short???

Any ideas and help appreciated...

tyvm

 

check all you wires. Look for disconnected, frayed, or grounded wires.

 

I have the same problem, I also have a code for battery temp high. The PCM reads volts to determine battery temp. I have no way to fix it so i took the battery light bulb out. I'm charging good and the diodes are good. My battery has been relocated to the trunk For about 6 months and I think thats what's causing it.

Also, bring it to advance auto parts or autozone and get it tested, your diodes may be bad. It will still charge fine but the battery light will still be on. Just because the alternator is new doesnt mean they cant be bad.

 

My battery is in my trunk too and I cant really see why it is messing w/ my power but when the battery light kicks on eventually my cd player shuts itself off i dunno if its an overload cuz my car is charging high or what but I wonder if there is a way I can fix it...

 

Umm..no. The PCM gets the battery temp from the battery temp sensor located in the stock battery tray. What did you do with the sensor when you re-located your battery? From what I understand if the PCM detects a high battery temp it will reduce/stop output from the alternator to prevent cooking the batt. I think you guys who have re-located your battery need to deal with this sensor somehow to keep the pcm from getting high readings.

 

no clue, i didnt relocate it, it was done before i bought it. There is an open connector so thats probably it but when i bought it the battery light was out for a while then it came on.

 

the temp is fine its just showing up on the recharge cuz the alt recharges at the high voltage. The battery tester showed no sign of cooking and if it has been doin it for more than a week it will usually fry the battery and well, hasnt done it yet.

 

I have a 97 Stratus 2.0 4dr manual and I have the EXACT same problem, however my battery is in the wheel well. Here are the symptoms:

1. New alternator and new battery as of last August (Napa Gold alternator and Die hard battery) The new alternator may be 125 amps instead of 90 amps, but that shouldn't be an issue, should it?
2. Started a few days after I first started using AC this summer.
3. Battery light stays on (checked out alternator and battery, both working fine)
4. Engine revs to 2000 RPM as I pull up to a stop light in neutral or with clutch disengaged, but drops to normal idle (750 RPM) when I come to complete stop.

What can I do/where can I go to diagnose the problem without paying the dealer $80 to evaluate?