cant get right
#1
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got a 95 neon - SOHC, been having a lot of issues with it. for awhile, it seemed as though it would throw random codes at me. every time it gave me a code, id fix it, and it would send me a new, different code. but now, its stuck on code 44. to this point, i have replaced the alt, battery, cables, battery clamps, MAP sensor, cam sensor, coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, spark plugs, all new upper gaskets, and i even broke down and bought a new computer. at low rpm's, it stumbles like crazy. when the rpm's get about say 2000, it seems to run very nice. but low rpms is awful. ive overcome this by gingerly starting my accelerations, and manual shifting at higher rmps, this also an automatic. that bein said, the battery light has been on for about 5 days now, had the system checked, battery is good, alternator is good, but battery is OVERCHARGED. initially, i thought voltage regulator, which is reason behind replacing the computer. now since i replaced that, it seems as though the entire system is either shutting down, or resetting irratically. im out of ideas....
#2
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The code 44 for the 95 is "Battery Temperature Sensor Volts Out Of Limit." This is not your problem. Is your battery sensor, that is on the bottom of the battery tray, connected?
You seem to have an idle problem. Pull your IAC motor and clean it up with some brake cleaner. Over time, soot can cause it to plug and act erratic. Clean out the TB while you are at it. If you still have issues after this, you may have an exposed wire somewhere in the engine bay. Pull the battery and battery tray out and inspect the wiring going to the fuse box. Oil can degrade the wires over time and expose them causing electrical nightmares.
You seem to have an idle problem. Pull your IAC motor and clean it up with some brake cleaner. Over time, soot can cause it to plug and act erratic. Clean out the TB while you are at it. If you still have issues after this, you may have an exposed wire somewhere in the engine bay. Pull the battery and battery tray out and inspect the wiring going to the fuse box. Oil can degrade the wires over time and expose them causing electrical nightmares.
#3
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i didnt know there was even sensor on the bottom of the batterey tray. ive never taken the tray out, so i dont how it could be disconnected. but i have been surprised before, so i will definitely try that out today. i also forgot to post that i have recently had my water pump tie up while i was driving, im sure you know the damage that was caused. fixed all that, seems to run GREAT at higher rpm's, just the low rpm's are killin me. thanks for the fresh idea, first time ive heard that one. any other idea's, please let me know. im willing to try about anything at this point.
#5
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ordered my new battery temp sensor, and the battery light went out, im assuming the battery is charging properly now. took the throttle body off, cleaned it out to "new" condition on the inside, took the TPS and IAC sensor off, cleaned the inner areas of each (didnt touch the plug area), threw it all back together, and still the hesitation persists. switched some relays around hopin for a faulty fuel pump relay, no difference. now, since i put the new computer in, ill be driving a standard 55-60 mph, and the engine just stops.....a few seconds later, it picks right back up. it also happens when sittin still. the engine will crank, but not fire. if i let it sit for a few seconds, i'll hear the fuel pump kick on and prime, and the car will start right up. and with the new battery sensor, its not giving me any more trouble codes, except for the standard 12 and 55. im too close to victory to admit defeat at this point, its turning into a pride thing. but im out of ideas, and tired of throwing money at it. Any other suggestions?
#7
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spark plugs are relatively new, even still, while i had the engine torn down to replace valves, i cleaned and double-checked the gap, all was good. the PCV i took out, rattled some when i shook it, but even then i still sprayed with carb cleaner to ensure it was fully cleaned out and loosened up. the two hoses were also sprayed and cleaned, so that system shouldnt be a problem. i was talking to a co-worker about her previous experience with the neon she used to have, said it would do the exact same thing, and she took it to a shop. of course when i asked her what the problem was, she had no idea, was no help. it feels like the engine just shuts off....doesnt stumble and stall, it just stops. its like the pcm is just shutting off. after a little bit, the normal battery light pops on as if you just turned the key on, and it'll start right back up. oh, and ive also decided to completely yank the EGR system too, from what ive read its really not needed, and i can make the block off plates myself.
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#8
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ok, so im pretty sure its a faulty pcm. as it died on me, i popped the hood, gave the computer a good tap with my trusty craftsman pocket knife, and everything just sorta came to life. not sure if its an internal problem with the pcm or maybe a bad wire or connection. gonna look into it today. although it did get the car to start back up, i didnt however address the stumbling problem. my plan at this point is to remove the EGR, replace the TPS, O2 sensors, air intake temp sensor, n crank sensor. pretty much in that order. after that, im out of sensors to replace.