Help! Quick plz clutch issues
#11
ok so i changed the clutch today and all is in order with the trans n clutch n i found out tht the shift linkage bushing on the trans was missing so thts y it was lose so i replaced tht to i drove the car up n down the street when i finished (at 12 am n pissed the neibors off)
but now my service engine light is on and my speedo isnt working wat could have caused this??
im thinking i need a new speed sensor but when i was drivin the car home after the TOB broke the speedo still worked perfect and the service engine light wasnt on
DAS2123 i tried to run the codes like u said but it didnt work i turned the key to acc off acc off acc and the light nver blinked not even for code 55 (which is no tripped codes) i also tried turning the key forward but tht didnt work either
BTW ALL THE FORUMS OUT THERE THT SAY U NEED TO DROP THE MOTOR FULLY ARE GIVING U MORE WORK TO DO THEN NESSASARY THE QUICKEST EASIEST WAY TO REPLACE THE CLUTCH IS REMOVE THE BATTERY AND THE BATTERY BRAKET LOOSEN BOLTS ON TRANS AND FLY WHEEL THN TAKE OUT BOTH AXLES AND LOSEN AND REMOVE THE TRANS MOUNT AND ONLY THE TRANS MOUNT I STARTED THIS JOB TODAY AT 7:30 AND FINISHED AT 11:30 I HAD THE CAR OUT ON THE ROAD BY 12
but now my service engine light is on and my speedo isnt working wat could have caused this??
im thinking i need a new speed sensor but when i was drivin the car home after the TOB broke the speedo still worked perfect and the service engine light wasnt on
DAS2123 i tried to run the codes like u said but it didnt work i turned the key to acc off acc off acc and the light nver blinked not even for code 55 (which is no tripped codes) i also tried turning the key forward but tht didnt work either
BTW ALL THE FORUMS OUT THERE THT SAY U NEED TO DROP THE MOTOR FULLY ARE GIVING U MORE WORK TO DO THEN NESSASARY THE QUICKEST EASIEST WAY TO REPLACE THE CLUTCH IS REMOVE THE BATTERY AND THE BATTERY BRAKET LOOSEN BOLTS ON TRANS AND FLY WHEEL THN TAKE OUT BOTH AXLES AND LOSEN AND REMOVE THE TRANS MOUNT AND ONLY THE TRANS MOUNT I STARTED THIS JOB TODAY AT 7:30 AND FINISHED AT 11:30 I HAD THE CAR OUT ON THE ROAD BY 12
#13
ok so i changed the clutch today and all is in order with the trans n clutch n i found out tht the shift linkage bushing on the trans was missing so thts y it was lose so i replaced tht to i drove the car up n down the street when i finished (at 12 am n pissed the neibors off)
but now my service engine light is on and my speedo isnt working wat could have caused this??
im thinking i need a new speed sensor but when i was drivin the car home after the TOB broke the speedo still worked perfect and the service engine light wasnt on
but now my service engine light is on and my speedo isnt working wat could have caused this??
im thinking i need a new speed sensor but when i was drivin the car home after the TOB broke the speedo still worked perfect and the service engine light wasnt on
This also assumes that your instrument panel is otherwise working just fine and you don't have the infamous cold solder issue that can make it seem like your sensor/connection is bad when the problem is actually in the instrument panel.
I believe that you did not repeat the on/off cycle enough and should have repeated it one more time. However, if you have a local parts store nearby, just swing by it and they will give you a free readout of your error codes from the OBD-II port in your car. Takes about 1 minute. They can even erase the errors if you like. All neons have it, even the 1995 model year cars (it was not required by the govt until 1996 model years). Dodge did one thing right in that regard.
#14
#15
Again, it could be the level sending unit and it is located in the gas tank. The only way to fix that is to replace the entire unit (about 200+ bucks). That is because the fuel pressure regulator, fuel level sending unit, fuel filter, and pump are all one unit and not generally sold as separate components - I could not find anyone who would when I had to replace mine.
BUT, even if you soldered everything up, it does not always work. If you can find someone who has a working unit, try theirs. That will let you know faster then anything else (and cheaply).
BUT, even if you soldered everything up, it does not always work. If you can find someone who has a working unit, try theirs. That will let you know faster then anything else (and cheaply).
#17
No, but your cruise control won't. the Vehicle Speed Sensor is the device that feeds input to your PCM. If it is bad or disconnected, or has an issue with the connection, then your speedo won't work, or may work intermittently.
If it is your instrument cluster that has the issue, then nothing you do under the hood will fix the problem.
If it is your instrument cluster that has the issue, then nothing you do under the hood will fix the problem.
#18
ok well i found a vacuum line disconnected and i cant find were it goes it comes off the evap canister i found two vacuum lines running into it ad i found a diagram ik one goes to the fuel tank and the other is supposed to go to the purge solenoid but there is one already hooked up there tht i unpluged when i chnaged the clutch
this is probably why my service engine light is on right?
and do uk where this line is supposed to go ? if this line does go to the purge solenoid were does the one off the intake manifold go?
this is probably why my service engine light is on right?
and do uk where this line is supposed to go ? if this line does go to the purge solenoid were does the one off the intake manifold go?
#19
I am willing to bet that yes, that is why your CEL is on. If your evap system isn't tight, you will get error codes that will indicate evap system leakage. One line from your evap charcoal canister goes into the evap purge selenoid and the other goes to a line that runs around the inside of your passenger front tire fender wall to a metal hose coming off the fuel tank. I found a leak in mine that was rubbed into it by the metal clip on the fender wall.
Here are two cheap solutions to your problem:
1) Go to the parts store and get them to give you a readout so that you know exactly which error codes you have. Free.
2) While you are there, pick up a copy of the Haynes repair manual. Cost is about $25, sometimes less. It has the vacuum line schematic to help you know where it all goes. You may even have a vacuum schematic on the underside of your hood, but sometimes they get gunked up and hard to read. Your local library may even have some repair manuals, check that out too.
Here are two cheap solutions to your problem:
1) Go to the parts store and get them to give you a readout so that you know exactly which error codes you have. Free.
2) While you are there, pick up a copy of the Haynes repair manual. Cost is about $25, sometimes less. It has the vacuum line schematic to help you know where it all goes. You may even have a vacuum schematic on the underside of your hood, but sometimes they get gunked up and hard to read. Your local library may even have some repair manuals, check that out too.
#20
I am willing to bet that yes, that is why your CEL is on. If your evap system isn't tight, you will get error codes that will indicate evap system leakage. One line from your evap charcoal canister goes into the evap purge selenoid and the other goes to a line that runs around the inside of your passenger front tire fender wall to a metal hose coming off the fuel tank. I found a leak in mine that was rubbed into it by the metal clip on the fender wall.
Here are two cheap solutions to your problem:
1) Go to the parts store and get them to give you a readout so that you know exactly which error codes you have. Free.
2) While you are there, pick up a copy of the Haynes repair manual. Cost is about $25, sometimes less. It has the vacuum line schematic to help you know where it all goes. You may even have a vacuum schematic on the underside of your hood, but sometimes they get gunked up and hard to read. Your local library may even have some repair manuals, check that out too.
Here are two cheap solutions to your problem:
1) Go to the parts store and get them to give you a readout so that you know exactly which error codes you have. Free.
2) While you are there, pick up a copy of the Haynes repair manual. Cost is about $25, sometimes less. It has the vacuum line schematic to help you know where it all goes. You may even have a vacuum schematic on the underside of your hood, but sometimes they get gunked up and hard to read. Your local library may even have some repair manuals, check that out too.