i have a 98 dodge neon r/t i think the throw out bearing is bad but im not sure i have to start the car in first bc if i start it in neutral i can get t into gear when at a stop the car shakes violently and tries to die im not sure if i need to replace the throw out bearing or if the cable is just lose or if i need to replace the spoon any ideas??? this is my only car i have to drive 1hour to work and 1hour back every day i need this repaired fast i bought a clutch kit for it but i wanna make sure thts the problem fisrt plz help asap

 

Sounds to me like your motor mounts are SHOT too. Check all three. They are weak even when new. I have already replaced 2 of the 3 I replaced less then two years ago.

What happens when you start in neutral and then put it into first?

Does it buck and jump and shudder?

Does it slip and the motor whines up trying to go?

What happens in the other gears and once you get going?

Does it happen everytime you stop and start off in 1st?

How many miles on the car and when/if was the clutch replaced?

I can say this. No matter what is really wrong with the clutch, if you have to open it up to check it out, you would be far better off just going ahead and replacing it with the new one anyway, because the last thing you want to do is have it go out soon after you just patch it up and tear into it again.

DO NOT let someone mess with the flywheel and grind on it. It is NOT the same as a brake rotor. It is not flat and if you grind it flat, whoa nelly! If it appears damaged, get yourself a new one or go find a better one at your local junkyard.

 

A bad TOB will not cause your car to shake and die. Sounds more like a fuel or electrical problem to me. Have you tried pulling the codes to see if anything pops up?

 

if i start in neutral and put it in first it grinds bad same with all the other gears if i start in first and try to change gears it grinds worse

when i start in first i have to let the car roll as i start it or it will die out right away

and i DO NOT have an obd2 to read the codes so no i havent pulled them yet

it shakes bad a a dead stop like the clutch isnt disengaging

at a stop if i stop back from the line and i feather the break leting on and off rapidly the car will stay running but if i stop totally the car will die even though i have the clutch pushed to the floor

ik its not an electrical or fuel problem bc after i get it started in first i can drive it i just cant take it out of gear or i have to turn off the car put it in first thn start it again thts how i got it home

i just bought the car so i dont no when it was changed last but i do have a new clutch kit and i planned on changing the whole thing
i dont remember the miles ill have to look again the car is sitting at a friends right now bc thts the closest place to were the car started acting up
i was told it was a TOB

 

the clutch doesnt slip at all after i get it started and rolling i can hit the gas n it launches like normal thts also y i think its the TOB it might also need new shift linkage bc the shifter feels kinda lose but its been tht way since i bought it n i am buyin a full energy bushing kit to replace the mounts n bushngs

 

You don't need an OBD2 reader to pull the codes...
Q: My Check Engine Light (CEL) is on, what do I do?
A: To read any codes on your neon, put the key in the ignition and cycle it to ACC on-off-on-off-on within 5 seconds. As the CEL flashes, count the number of flashes. This represents the code. An example would be flash-flash-flash-flash, pause, flash-flash-flash, which would be a Code 43, single or multiple cylinder misfire. A list of codes can be found here...
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/general...d-engines.html

 

ok ill run the codes and post my results but can u think of anything else besides the clutch and TOB tht could cause the problems im having?? i really need to get this fix i dont have any other way to get to work so plz help!!!!!!

 

and my cel light only comes on when i have the car running and in gear i can start the car in neutral and the cel doesnt come on would the clutch being bad cause this or a selenoid maybe??

 

1) replace the motor mounts and check the thrust strut (aka bobble strut) because most likely your need to replace the three mounts and quite possibly the bobble too. Most of your serious vibration problems are probably because of that. A bad bobble will also give you excessive wheel hop and further wear out any already weak mounts.

2) Go ahead and replace the clutch with the kit you say you already bought. The kit should have everything you need to do it. It sounds like your pressure plate may not be releasing properly and may be too worn - or it could be a bad TOB, or both. Both problems are fixed by putting in a new clutch. Since you don't know when/if it was ever done, you have already bought the parts, and you really need the car to run reliably, so just go ahead and do it. I would also recommend you go ahead and change the dope in the tranny too. Who knows when/if it was ever done? That is easily done and does not cost a lot either.

3) replace the shift linkage bushings to remove the slack. If your bushing are tight, your shifting will be good and tight too.

BTW, a bad clutch will not light up the CEL, and there are no selenoids to trigger a tranny error code for 5-speeds.

Good luck

 

ok thank you
im doing the clutch tmrw ill post any other problems i run into