I Just pulled the wiring harness, and just above where the crank sensor pigtail starts, the insulation around many of the wires was gone pretty much had just disinigrated. there were a few other spots as well, so i repaired it and put it back in. It still doesnt want to start.

 

Did you repair the wiring too? There may be a break in the connection somewhere.

 

Agagin... Rip harness out and apart and check it all. It's all right next to the muffler and after 15 years of heat, cold, oil plastic gets a little brittle and spots rub through. Put the car up on ramps and go from the alternator and work your way to the computer.... disconnect everything and pull the harness out so you can look at it. Strip away all the sheething so you can examine all the wires from the alterator to the computer. Did mine in the dead of winter... it sucked but it was worth it! Real bad spot was by the camshaft position sensor. Dozen or so wires rubbed through. As a result I would get no start conditions, bad running conditions... right next to the clutch/shift control arms. So car would run great till that arm touched the wire harness just right and car would just bog down or die or funny stuff would happen... air bag light would turn on or my left blinker would stop working.

'crimps' or splices... you never know. Never saw any faulty ones on my neon. As for wireing.... lots of rubbing and cracked wireing. You should be able to play with it and it should be flexable and soft and not crack or break even at freezing temps. If it does REPLACE. When you do it do it right or be prepared to do it again. Solder it and shrink wrap or get water tight splice crimp thingies. I like to solder and heat shrink... heat shrink is cheap... you can get an 8 foot roll of the stuff for $5.

Did you replace the pigtail for the crank sensor or reuse the old one? If you re-used the old one there may be a problem there too. If you crank the car do you get any codes with the key dance aside from 12, 55? Is there fuel pressure at the fuel rail? Have you done a compression test? You getting spark? Have you tried cursing, begging, threats?
Don't let the car see you cry. It's evil soul will feed off the tears and when it has enough it will... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJ5M11m9vI0

 

The pigtail for the crank sensor was replaced with the sensor, the cam sensor is new, the coil pack is new, pulled a pcm from the junk yard, i spent hours going over the entire harness cleaning and repairing, ive tried the ASD relay tested the TP sensor, the MAP sensor, I thought that it was the crank sensor even though it was new but the car never heated up to normal temp again for me to test it while warm. I was getting 12, 11, 35, 31, 55. 11 doesnt come up now that i repaired the harness. 35 comes up because i have the rad fan wired directly to the batt on a toggle switch inside the car. It has a 98 pcm that was in it when i bought the car. Will the correct codes come up by just turning the engine over? there is fuel, no problem there. There are a few new boot prints on the car and i need to reattach the bumper.

 

yeah i havent tried a pcm yet, but mine has......... new coil, new plugs, new wires, new coolant temp sensor, new cam sensor, new crank sensor along with new pigtail for it, new oil pressure sending unit... i had some damaged wires in the past but i think im going to pull the harness out and go over it with a fine tooth comb. i miss my mpg.......... and yes i have fuel pressure everywhere, and it had spark up until it would die before and then it lost it. anymore i dont know but its not starting at all anymore. it started off almost getting up to temp then dying. then slowly it would stay running less and less and take longer each time before it would restart.

 

Redd826 try running a ground to either the frame or battery and a hot to the relay in the fuse panel under the hood... I believe it's a light green wire. Had similar issue and had to rerun wire.
Not a real good idea to run a toggle switch to your fans. You may forget to turn it on and leaving it on all the time will put a constant strain on your alternator/engine.
Sometimes just cranking engine will throw a code with key dance but MIL light wouldn't come on. With my faulty crank sensor it wouldn't throw a code... but then sometimes it would but MIL light would not come on because of crank sensor but rather because a misfire was detected.
My timing belt had lots of play due to a faulty hydrolic tensioner and pully but I didn't get any codes even though it was off by at least 3 teeth. Car ran great but noticed it would Idle at 1500 RPM when I would throw car into nuetral while car was moving. Idle would drop to 1000 RPM a few seconds after car came to complete stop. Though this was the IAC valve... cleaned it and stuff but there was no cchange so assumed the higher idle was because can was moving and the ECM was keeping 1500 RPM in case I put car in gear. However, after putting engine back togeather idle is always ~1000 RPM, moving or in park and drops to ~1000 RPM if I put car in neutral at any speed. I like to coast allot.
Did forget to reconnect the MAP sensor after putting engine back togeather. Did not effect egine start but depending on your altitude... did illuminate MIL light.

92 4x4. So your both getting good fuel pressure even after the car dies your just loosing spark... Hmm gotta be electrical or the ECM maybe corrosion on the pins for ECM? About $30 for a replacement at salvage yards around here. http://www.vincesupullit.com/2002pri...2prices&UID=43 Gotta be a match for the engine and wire harness from what I've read.
All your relays are good? You've tried replacing them or swapping them around. Easy test... just pull the relay out and swap it with horn and if the horn works. Does the Neon have any kind of emergency shutoff that may be getting tripped. Oil pressure shutoff switch or something.
Maybe the ignition is worn. Where you put the key in... Have seen Chevy and dodge ignitions wearing out so you will get fuel or spark but not both and it can be intermittent. Long shot... You can hot wire the car to check... shot in the dark. Again, salvage yard sold me those for $15,
Vinces is almost 2 hours away so I only go there when I can get stuff local or I'm picking up allot of stuff

There is a cheap $20 code reader you can connect to your laptop/car and read live sensor data as you crank the engine over. May help you narrow down possibilities http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA0U007V2943 I got mine off Ebay for $15 with shipping.

Spark plug tubes are nice and clean, no oil in there? Plugs are gapped and look nice and perdy? Your not getting spark at all though so it has to be the ECM or a sensor or relay not functioning properly.

Das2123 is right. You should check your ground wires from battery, engine and frame.

Cars run but die after a few moments. I'd yank the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors and test or exchange them and do continuity tests on the wires. You tried pulling the crank/cam sensors and reseating them? Is there excessive play in your Camshaft? Was there or is there evidence of the camshaft rubbing on the camshaft position sensor?
My crankshaft position sensor was a pain to get in.... 2 times the O-ring snagged on the block so I had to pull it out, and replace the O-ring and try again. If the crankshaft position sensor isn't seated properly... could cause issues I guess.

God I wish you guys were closer... Would love to look at the cars, hear them crank over and run... when they do run. When the do or did run was it a normal idle or was it rough high or slow? 800-1200 RPM, faster or slower. Does or did the exhaust smell rich or lean?

This is a really silly question but how much gas is in the fuel tank? After sitting and once when I ran car to E my car would not start with less than half a tank. How old is the fuel filter? Your getting fuel pressure though... in my case it was only putting out about 20psi your getting ~45psi.

Compression test won't mean much I know... When I put a block from the junk yard on my car #1 and #4 were getting no compression. #2 ~80psi #3 ~180 PSI. Turned out to be bent valves.... Car ran like crap but it ran if I kept the RPM above 2000 RPM.
Compression test would help determine if your timing is off.

I'm so sorry and hope you guys get your babies running.
Gotta be one of the funnest cars to work on and drive since my Sundance

 

I put the toggle switch in because the person i bought it from just had wires coming in that had to be twisted together to run the fan. I just recently found out that it has a 98 computer in it which is why it wouldnt run the fans. but ill worry about that later lol. when The car was running it sounded perfect. no misses or running rough. I picked up a scanner yesterday but the only codes it was giving me were for the fan and purge solenoid. every once in a while after cranking it will give me the 11 so i was hoping to narrow that down with the scanner but it didnt show up this time. The fuel pressure is fine just no spark at all now. Timing belt is fine as well. I just put new plugs in and resealed the tubes. I have the other computer from a 96 but it hasnt made a difference. It started once with it and died right away. I was wondering how do you find out if the cam sensor target magnet is bad? the crank and cam sensors were done by a shop (which ripped me off). I was away from home with the car when they did those and said i shouldnt have any issues anymore. 20 min later on the freeway it dies and wont restart. My car is a manual so Im always coasting lol. If the cam had some play in it wouldnt it have some noise coming from the engine? it was shutting off when it got warm then sooner and sooner till now its not starting at all.

 

so im still getting the 11 key dance code but no p codes for it?

 

11 with key dance is either you cam or crank sensors or timing. So there may be a short or a faulty sensor. Check your wiring...Napa has a Crank sensor for about $64+tax. Same warenty as the $90... maybe the extra 30 gives the car more HP.

 

ive already picked through the wiring with a fine tooth comb. And both of those sensors were replace by a shop a few weeks ago that said there is a 1 year warranty on them. That shop is over 30min away and would i just call them and say "i think the sensors you put in are bad.I want to trade them for different ones."Theyd probably laugh at me and say i voided the warranty or some crap. Thats why i was hoping a p code would show up with the 11. So I could narrow it down. Im pretty much done with the car. Anyone in WA that wants to buy it?