96 neon stalling
I all, my car is a piece of crap. It has been into Dodge two times and they still don't know what is wrong. I start driving get a bit and when i come to a stop it stalls. If i hold the gas on a bid it will stay running, but as soon as i take it off it dies. It does this periodically usually i t does it i take it to Dodge and then it behaves. GRRRR. It has been doing this for about a year. It started off once in a while when it was really hot out, but now it is 3 or 4 times a week. Today it happened again, I was on the gas and brake to keep it idling at the stop sign and then when i went to go i had no power just idle revs through the intersection then picked up again. There are no codes. I have just replaced both O2 sensors. Plugs, wires, and coil pack a year ago.
Does your '96 have the external fuel filter? Some do, and most dealers don't realize it.
What brand sensors? Bosch has been known to have problems, NGK is the preferred brand (stocked by dealer).
What plugs? Platinums are proven to have problems, copper is always preferred.
What wires? Stock or stock replacements are OK, MSD, Magnecore, and Crane make good ones. Gimmick crap like Nology is going to cause problems.
Keeping the same rpm through an intersection with the throttle wide open sounds to me like a fuel control issue - running super rich and the computer isn't realizing it. So many factors go into fuel control though, everything from throttle position to coolant temp,and that's just the sensors. Fuel pumps tend to just die, but filters and injectors go bad over time. If one injector was bad, the rest would make up the difference and the O2 sensors would never know, so one cylinder would be lean (bad) and the others would be rich (no power).
But for now, let's start with the most common and easiest to get at - fuel filter and ignition parts.
What brand sensors? Bosch has been known to have problems, NGK is the preferred brand (stocked by dealer).
What plugs? Platinums are proven to have problems, copper is always preferred.
What wires? Stock or stock replacements are OK, MSD, Magnecore, and Crane make good ones. Gimmick crap like Nology is going to cause problems.
Keeping the same rpm through an intersection with the throttle wide open sounds to me like a fuel control issue - running super rich and the computer isn't realizing it. So many factors go into fuel control though, everything from throttle position to coolant temp,and that's just the sensors. Fuel pumps tend to just die, but filters and injectors go bad over time. If one injector was bad, the rest would make up the difference and the O2 sensors would never know, so one cylinder would be lean (bad) and the others would be rich (no power).
But for now, let's start with the most common and easiest to get at - fuel filter and ignition parts.
Hey guys sorry it took me so long. I have no external fuel filter, and no codes. I have put in dodge product O2 Sensors, both brand new. Sorry don't know the brands of the others but the are jobbers for sure. Maybe I will check the injectors. Thanks.
I would like to know about this also since I am in the market and have found the same year neon with the same exact problem.
It has been tuned up and still does it.
I am going to look at it this weekend. It only has 78k on it. The guy thinks it may need a new fuel pump, but those are pricy, and I don't want to jump to conclusions if that isn't the culprit.
I was thinking:
Check the plugs, make sure they are correct and gapped right
TPS sensor, is this easy/cheap to fix?
Maybe replace O2 sensors?
Then the fuel pump if it continues?
What else should I look for when looking at this car? BTW it is a 96 Plymouth Neon Highline SOHC
It has been tuned up and still does it.
I am going to look at it this weekend. It only has 78k on it. The guy thinks it may need a new fuel pump, but those are pricy, and I don't want to jump to conclusions if that isn't the culprit.
I was thinking:
Check the plugs, make sure they are correct and gapped right
TPS sensor, is this easy/cheap to fix?
Maybe replace O2 sensors?
Then the fuel pump if it continues?
What else should I look for when looking at this car? BTW it is a 96 Plymouth Neon Highline SOHC
BUMP
Anyone? Please? Help?
I see a ton of related questions browsing and searching, but no one ever seems to post what the fix is? Or do you just deal with it? Or sell the car?
Input would be much appreciated!
--Ed
Anyone? Please? Help?
I see a ton of related questions browsing and searching, but no one ever seems to post what the fix is? Or do you just deal with it? Or sell the car?
Input would be much appreciated!
--Ed
It seems strange that you have such a serious problem and no service engine light. Can you have someone scan the vehicle and post the results? It might give me somewhere to start since there are a multitude of conditions that could cause that problem.
I am looking for the Max and Min on the following after the engine has warmed up and you have driven it around the block.
Intake Manifold Pressure
Engine Coolant Temp
Engine RPM
Intake Air Temperature
Long Term Fuel Trim
O2 Sensor B1-S1
O2 Sensor B1-S2
Also check for misfire counts if your scanner will read it.
I am looking for the Max and Min on the following after the engine has warmed up and you have driven it around the block.
Intake Manifold Pressure
Engine Coolant Temp
Engine RPM
Intake Air Temperature
Long Term Fuel Trim
O2 Sensor B1-S1
O2 Sensor B1-S2
Also check for misfire counts if your scanner will read it.
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I have a 97 and it used to do the same.At first I blocked the egr valve to test it out and it worked,so I later changed it to get rid of the check engine light,so you might consider that.You might check the egr valve gaskets for leaks.


