i already found that one before i put the head on, the one i need is the tightening sequence and torque for the camshafts?

 

TORQUE CHART 2.0L DOHC DESCRIPTION TORQUE Camshaft Sensor Pick-Up Bolts 9.6 N·m (85 in. lbs.) Camshaft Sprocket Bolt 115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.) Connecting Rod Cap Bolts 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) Plus 1/4 Turn Collar - Oil Pan to Transaxle Step 1: Collar to Oil Pan Bolts 3 N·m (30 in. lbs.) Step 2: Collar to Transaxle Bolts 108 N·m (80 ft. lbs.) Step 3: Collar to Oil Pan Bolts 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap/Bedplate M8 Bedplate Bolts 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.) M11 Main Cap Bolts 81 N·m (60 ft. lbs.) Crankshaft Damper Bolt 142 N·m (105 ft. lbs.) Cylinder Head Bolts Refer To Cylinder Head Installation Cylinder Head Cover Bolts 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) Drive Plate to Crankshaft Bolts 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.) Engine Mount Bracket Bolts 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.) Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolts 23 N·m (200 in. lbs.) Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Bolts 15 N·m (130 in. lbs.) Intake Manifold Bolts 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) Oil Filter Adapter Fastener 80 N·m (60 ft. lbs.) Oil Filter 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.) Oil Pan Bolts 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) Drain Plug 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) Oil Pump Attaching Bolts 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) Oil Pump Cover Fastener 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) Oil Pump Pick-up Tube Bolt 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) Oil Pump Relief Valve Cap 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) Spark Plugs Plug 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) Thermostat Housing Bolts 23 N·m (200 in lbs.) Timing Belt Tensioner Assembly - Mechanical Bolts 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) Timing Belt Tensioner Assembly - Hydraulic Bolts 31 N·m (275 in. lbs.) Timing Belt T

Not sure of the sequence I just start from the center and work my way out. Cut the torque into 1/3rds for the first time around then 2/3rds, then the full torque. I lost my haynes, but if you really need the sequence PM me our vin and email and I could get it to you next week at work.

 

thanx guys real helpful now i have one more problem lol i put everything back to gather and it turns over but wont start it keeps blowing the fuel pump fuse and cant find out whY? i connect one ground that goes to the msd and keeps blowing out any ideas on what it can be?

 

Mine is similar to this. I have never tried the little hand cranking ones. The big C one I use I had to cut and modify for it to sit level with the valve. On second look mine is also bigger then this one, just similar design.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KD-Tools-Val...5a146c&vxp=mtr

 

hey guys i have another issue here and i did the head swap and turned out amazingly great and nice lol but i have now another issue and it has to do with my fuel delivery system lol my car ran and worked good and could here the gas pump charge before stating the engine now this was about end of December, now i tried starting my car up after i finished the swap and now wont start and i cant hear the fuel pump charge even with a good fuze. now when i try to start it it blows the fuze everytime i crank it??? need some help i hear it is the fuel pump but not sure if it went bad? please help

 

Inspect your engine harness at the back of the block. The harness may be coming in contact with the passenger side axle grounding out the harness cause the small fuel pump fuse to blow.

 

sweet thanx for that i changed to fuel pump and went with a 255 walbro pump from modern performance lol now i have another question now that i changed the pump do i have to go with a stronger fuze or what should i do because i turn the key and now i can hear it charge and turn it on for a few seconds and it blows the fuze again but it starts now lol before it would blow it when i turned it over but now it starts at least for about 3 seconds?? help
p.s. i checked the wire harness and i don's seem to find any short in the wires?