i have a 96 neon highline 2.0 auto. the car runs great until it warms up after driving for a little while than just shuts down with no warning, no sputtering or nothing. it generally starts right back up but than shuts back down until you let it sit for awhile so it cools down. after it cools down it will start right back up and run again for awhile than shuts down.

im getting code 17, which is Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long.

i have changed the thermostat just the other day and it still shuts down. i changed the coolant sensor about 8 months ago but am thinking it is bad again. i also put in a new computer just a few weeks ago since i had no connection to the computer at all after the car shut itself down until it cooled off. may have that problem again but not sure, havnt taken it to my buddies house to let it run and shut itself down to check for connection.

i think im going to change that sensor again but it only seems like a temporary fix since the problem has come back less than a year later. why would that sensor go bad and what else should i be checking into as to why the car is doing this?

 

Anyone have an idea

 

The coolant temp sensor can and will affect how it runs and starts. So if the sensor is not working, fix what is broken first. When you say lost communication when it died you mean an OBD scanner could not connect to it? When it dies do you lose spark or fuel? Any check engine lights?

 

The light doesn't come on and yes the scanner couldn't connect to it. I'm going to replace the coolant sensor but what would cause that sensor to go out in less than a year

 

Maybe someone used tap water or the wrong coolant, possibly just a bad sensor again. It if was "shorting" out you would get a false reading.

 

What do you mean wrong coolant? I buy the stuff you mix with water and always make sure its 50 50. Wow that sounds like I'm mad lol. I'm not yelling just merely asking.

 

By wrong coolant I just meant crap coolant. Like recycled or reused. As long as your using the 50/50 premix it shouldn't cause any issues. Tap water and poor coolant can cause corrosion and crap in the cooling system.

 

Changed coolant sensor and thermostat. Code 17 went away. Car still died after it warmed up, approximately 10 minutes run time. Now got code 11 right after car shut down. After I let it sit for awhile so it was cooled off, it started back up. So I know its not the timing belt jumping.

So my question is what is more of the common problem, cam sensor or crank sensor? Replaced cam sensor about a year ago but is oily again. Thinking that is the problem.

Also what does the last part of code 11 mean? No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking.

 

Code 11:
11 - No crank reference signal at the Powertrain control Module (PCM).
11 (P1390) - Timing belt skipped one tooth or more.
11 (P1391) - Intermittent loss of Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) or Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)


It could be either sensor, they both work together. Check over the cam magnet and wiring. Oil on the sensor could be a bad cam seal.

 

I literally just had this same exact problem (minus all the coolant sensor hullaballoo) and it was my crank sensor. I also had the same problem a year ago and changed my crank sensor then, it seems O'Reilly's crank sensors are known for chronic failure. I would suggest you get an official OEM replacement so you don't have this problem again.