Have a 1996 dodge neon with a SOHC. Last week the timing belt jumped and bent the valves.

The only head I could find was from a 2002 neon which does not have the EGR port in the head.

I have been reading that you can bypass the EGR with a resister, coin and blocking plate. Are there any other options?
The tube/gasses go into the head to be burned off by the engine so can I just run a/the tube to the exaust manifold and have it fuction? Stock PCM and all the other EGR components are there.

It would be easy enough at this point to drill a hole in the exaust and run tubing.
Just got the car running a minute ago and it has been raining all day. Engine sounds great. Have to reinstall the timing cover, power steering and alternator, motor mount and a few other things.

I have to pass emmisions because it's New York state.

May be able to drill a hole in the side of the head where the EGR is spos to be located. Is there a cavity? How deep do I drill? Or rather, if I drill will the EGR fuction? The two bolt holes are simple... just drill and run a dye and I can use my old head to make a template.

Any help would be appreciated. I would rather have a fuctioning EGR valave. Could go to Radioshack and go the resister rout but want to run the car clean.

 

Why didn't you use the old head as a guide. You knew the replacement you bought was not the same. Why not check the #4 exhaust port and see what differences there may be? At this point the metal shavings from drilling may get sucked back into the combustion chamber due to reversion, and cause damage. Put yourself in a pickle. If it is running good, then you have already blocked off the intake manifold. Leave the egr solenoid plugged into the harness, seafoam the intake and take it from there. That would be my plan.

 

I can drill slow and steady so the shavings don't go into the engine or at least minumize what does.

It was freezing last week and today was nice though it rained and I just need a car so I can get to work Monday and figured I could do the mods later when I have time and the weather is better.

Tomorrow I have to finish and there is more rain and snow coming with 15-20 mph wind.
If I have time I'm going to just drill it out using the metal EGR gasket as a template.

Don't know if I can trust the timing belt tensioner. I bought the kit almost two years ago. Timing belt, tensioner, water pump. Last week we had a blizzard and I hit a snow drift. Snow got up between the firewall and engine and ripped the wiring out of the crankshaft position sensor. The car just died. I managed to find the short and fix it but with 16 bent valves... car didn't start. The 'shock' of the misfire knocked the spring tang out of the slot and the timing jumped.

Can the CPS wireing getting yanked while the engine is running cause the timing to jump in such a way? Was driving 25mph at about 1500 RPM in 4th gear.

Car has ran great since I did the head gasket kit and timing kit march 2012. I did that work because of the head gasket oil leak and it was due for the timing job.
Love that little car and want to get a few more years out of it.

So as you suggest: Just leave as is and do a cleaning with Seafoam will it pass emissions next month when my inspection is due?
Or just use the resistor trick to get through the emmisions test?

 

No matter how the CPS gets disconnected, that will not cause the timing belt to jump. A failing or failed tensioner will allow play in the belt. That is what happened to mine. You should not have any issues with emmissions, but check for codes just to be certain.

 

Thank you.

I guess the rest of my paycheck is going twords a new tensioner aswell. Bearings seemed good but I'm worried about that spring slipping out again and having to replace the head again. May as well do it while it's apart.

One thing about Neons is they are easy to work on and fun to drive. If not for the weather it would be a breeze.

 

CEL will still come on in time I had to pass my emissions last month and I just took a hose and put it on the vac side of egr and the other end to the top of the brake booster and then just looped the other to and it passed .

 

Still no CEL/MIL light after a month. I put a penny in between the ERG valve and the tube going to the throttle body. The other two hoses are connected as they should be. The EGR just sit there on top of the transmission housing.

Did have an idl issue. first few days idle would sit at 1200 rpm. Than it started hovering at 500 rpm. At lights the car would stull unless I feathered the gas. That can be a pain when driving a standard.... Pulled the throttle body off and gave it a good cleaning and car is running great. Idle stays at 900-1000. Only MIL/CEL light was code 43 "Multiple/ single cylinder misfire" and code 24 "Throttle Position sensor out of range".
Code 24: A sticking idle speed control motor. Just needed cleaning and lubing.
Code 43: Had to reseat the #4 spark plug tube. Oil was seeping in. A little cleaning and Indian Head gasket maker.

So far have put 380 miles on the car since replaceing the head and bypassing EGR. Do plan on drilling the holes just because.
Idles and runs nice and quiet/smooth. Getting about 25 MPG even with idle to warm up car, live in ny state so it can be cold.

 

Ended up drilling holes in the side of the head in May. As Ghost suggested, use the old head as a templet.

I kinda botched it... there was a tiny hole because the port I drilled wasn't completly strait. Could hear popping noise from the leak and MPG dropped to 20. Used 1/4" threaded rods as studs with red thread lock.

I pulled the head... which I should have done in the first place, used JB weld to fill the hole between the exhaust manifold and the head. Put it back together and car has been running great. 30-35 MPG.

That was until last week... that may be another thread. Believe PCM may be dying.