supercharger
Legend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,606
Likes: 0
From:
RE: supercharger
They are junk. They don't work. Your car flows more CFMs stock than the supercharges provide, I have never used one, but simple physics would tell you that it would lose HP. And if you do decide to try it don't buy it off ebay, all they are is a bilge blower or A/C blower. The one I have on by boat flows 400 CFM out of the bilge. It was about $40. http://www.boatus-store.com/webapp/w...oductId=120672. Look familiar?? and its only $31
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
From:
RE: supercharger
There is a place that sells a no-kidding electric supercharger that isn't a complete ripoff. We're talking 6+ psi of boost (plenty safe for the stock internals) at 350-400 cfm, looking at 200+ HP out of the Neon if anyone were to actually spend the money... Uses a bank of marine batteries to run it, and it only lasts 15 seconds or so at a shot. But it costs more than the turbo kits that are out there... So, in my opinion, it's kinda like having nitrous (no on all the time) without having to refill a bottle (just park and let the batteries recharge for 15 minutes...), for triple the price of a decent wet kit with all the safety features.
Best of luck!
Best of luck!
Legend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 9,606
Likes: 0
From:
RE: supercharger
ORIGINAL: RadarLove
There is a place that sells a no-kidding electric supercharger that isn't a complete ripoff. We're talking 6+ psi of boost (plenty safe for the stock internals) at 350-400 cfm, looking at 200+ HP out of the Neon if anyone were to actually spend the money... Uses a bank of marine batteries to run it, and it only lasts 15 seconds or so at a shot. But it costs more than the turbo kits that are out there... So, in my opinion, it's kinda like having nitrous (no on all the time) without having to refill a bottle (just park and let the batteries recharge for 15 minutes...), for triple the price of a decent wet kit with all the safety features.
Best of luck!
There is a place that sells a no-kidding electric supercharger that isn't a complete ripoff. We're talking 6+ psi of boost (plenty safe for the stock internals) at 350-400 cfm, looking at 200+ HP out of the Neon if anyone were to actually spend the money... Uses a bank of marine batteries to run it, and it only lasts 15 seconds or so at a shot. But it costs more than the turbo kits that are out there... So, in my opinion, it's kinda like having nitrous (no on all the time) without having to refill a bottle (just park and let the batteries recharge for 15 minutes...), for triple the price of a decent wet kit with all the safety features.
Best of luck!
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
From:
RE: supercharger
You've got a lot to learn about forced induction... Not to worry, people aren't born with the knowledge and it's not exactly intuitive... Most of it's still a mystery to me...
For $28.99 you can flow 240 cfm with zero backpressure. The trick with forced induction is to maintain that flow against a positive pressure. A typical T3 60 trim, for example, should flow 400 cfm at 14-15 psi. A Super 16G could do 490 cfm at 22 psi. Stick a professional series blow dryer/leaf blower/bilge pump against your floor and you're going to have 1) burnt carpet, and 2) a dead motor in under a minute. That's why those ebay pieces of crap don't do anything. Heck, each of my $6 computer case fans flow over 200 cfm... not going to stick them in my intake tube.
Remember, with forced induction (nitrous is a tad different...), you have more air molecules (thus more oxygen molecules for combustion) packed into a given space. So 1 cubic foot at atmospheric pressure (or less) is not the same as 1 cubic foot under 10 pounds of pressure. With me so far? So 300 cfm on a naturally aspirated engine provides much less oxygen to the cylinder than 300 cfm on a car boosted to 10 psi. Nitrous just provides more oxygen molecues instead of compressing the air... same effect. Air has 23% Oxygen (by weight), nitrous oxide has 36%, almost a 50% increase. It's not cheating, it's working smarter instead of harder, so to speak.
The other big mistake people make is thinking that it's all about the boost. 10 psi is obviously better than 8 psi, and 15 even better, and 20 even better still, right? Not necessarily... That's where understanding turbo maps and how they apply to your engine, setup, atmospheric conditions, etc. comes into play. So some guy with an undersized turbo might be bragging about running 20 psi, and can't figure out why another guy with the same basic setup, just a different (more appropriately sized) turbo at 15 psi, is knocking his socks off.
For those interested in reading more on the ESC-350, here's the link: http://www.boosthead.com/product.php
I personally don't see any real advantage other than the novelty of it. I was wrong on the price, "only" $1300, but that only includes the unit - no how-to, no piping, no wiring, no batteries, no bigger fuel pump, no rising rate regulator, no BOV, no black box so your MAP doesn't freak out...
For $28.99 you can flow 240 cfm with zero backpressure. The trick with forced induction is to maintain that flow against a positive pressure. A typical T3 60 trim, for example, should flow 400 cfm at 14-15 psi. A Super 16G could do 490 cfm at 22 psi. Stick a professional series blow dryer/leaf blower/bilge pump against your floor and you're going to have 1) burnt carpet, and 2) a dead motor in under a minute. That's why those ebay pieces of crap don't do anything. Heck, each of my $6 computer case fans flow over 200 cfm... not going to stick them in my intake tube.
Remember, with forced induction (nitrous is a tad different...), you have more air molecules (thus more oxygen molecules for combustion) packed into a given space. So 1 cubic foot at atmospheric pressure (or less) is not the same as 1 cubic foot under 10 pounds of pressure. With me so far? So 300 cfm on a naturally aspirated engine provides much less oxygen to the cylinder than 300 cfm on a car boosted to 10 psi. Nitrous just provides more oxygen molecues instead of compressing the air... same effect. Air has 23% Oxygen (by weight), nitrous oxide has 36%, almost a 50% increase. It's not cheating, it's working smarter instead of harder, so to speak.
The other big mistake people make is thinking that it's all about the boost. 10 psi is obviously better than 8 psi, and 15 even better, and 20 even better still, right? Not necessarily... That's where understanding turbo maps and how they apply to your engine, setup, atmospheric conditions, etc. comes into play. So some guy with an undersized turbo might be bragging about running 20 psi, and can't figure out why another guy with the same basic setup, just a different (more appropriately sized) turbo at 15 psi, is knocking his socks off.
For those interested in reading more on the ESC-350, here's the link: http://www.boosthead.com/product.php
I personally don't see any real advantage other than the novelty of it. I was wrong on the price, "only" $1300, but that only includes the unit - no how-to, no piping, no wiring, no batteries, no bigger fuel pump, no rising rate regulator, no BOV, no black box so your MAP doesn't freak out...
