I have a '95 Neon with only 130 000 KM's, It has Intermittent problems while driving, seems to be getting more frequent. Once a day now instead of once a week previously.

While driving, it just loses all engine power; electrical, lights and dash still fine.
While this is ha penning, you can push the gas pedal all you want, just doesn't go. If I press it in ever so sightly, it goes real slow.
While it was doing this I pulled over, removed the fuel pressure test cap and pressed the tip in to see if it had any fuel pressure, barely had anything. Fuel was just sputtering out.
Quickest way to resolve the issue seems to be by turning key off/on. I can now even do it in neutral while driving so I don't have to pull over. I don't even have turn the motor off really, just a quick turn of the key, click off/on real quick, put tranny back into Drive and away I go, good for another 5-10 minutes.

I tested fuel pressure (with screwdriver) while this intermittent issue was not happening, and fuel came out like a nice mist, like a jet.

Fuel pump module has been replaced. This includes the pressure regulator, which I thought must have been faulty, but still having same issue. Any ideas?

I just used the "on-board diagnostics" method to pull some codes...
This is what it said...

23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
32 EGR system failure

Could either one of these be causing my issues?

 

Replace your air temp sensor and your EGR system. Those should resolve your problems.

 

I would fix the codes and see what happens. It is possible that they could be the problem, but I have a feeling its either a fuel pump or PCM.

 

I'd like to know on this subject as well.

My '95 Plymouth Neon, SOHC, 139k is doing the same thing, however, not as frequently as your's. I get codes for the O2 sensor, to which I am planning on replacing as soon as my IRS check gets in my account!!!! But yeah, it like dogs down and then just almost wants to quit, then I let up on the accelerator and it fixes and goes on.

I thought fouled plugs, haven't checked yet, however, will be doing so when I get that check.

I also have my own problems....

Starting the engine, the engine while cold, has a tap that is loud, but when gets warm, it goes away....I am not sure, however, last year, a mechanic said could be a carbon problem on the head, since he scoped it I guess.

I asked a mechanic last night, how to rid the carbon, they said, two ways, get this chemical to put in with your oil and your gas, or take a water bottle and spray some mist in the throttle body and it will BLOW out the carbon like dynamite, and then use marvel mystery oil to lubricate.

So was just curious on this 95 neon subject and all. Thanks!

 

When the fuel pump was replaced, was the fuel filter replaced as well? The 95's and some of the early 96's were the only ones that had an external filter with a regular maintenance interval (35k miles). If it's clogged, it'll take out the pump pretty quick.

Neither air temp nor the egr system will affect fuel pressure. Still, it's best to attack the issues you know about first... A bad EGR system you might notice at idle or low rpm's, but not on the freeway. And while the air intake temp does go into the fuel trim calculation, the Neon's PCM is programmed to adjust fuel injector pulse width, not fuel pressure (which should be a constant 49 psi, and is not monitored by the PCM). When you checked fuel pressure, was the car running? 95's have a return line setup (sort of...) and pressure bleeds off pretty quick. I would never recommend doing it that way with a hot engine... Fuel pressure gauges are $20 or so (Autozone may rent them for free...), and will tell you a lot more without risking a fire.

For carbon buildup inside the engine, try using the Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner from the dealer. You can also use a product called "seafoam" that does the same thing. There will be a lot, and I mean A LOT of smoke while you do this, and you're going to want to change the oil immediately afterwards.

Best of luck!

 

Ok, I am having the same issues as Mr. Frenchy.

Currently I have about 114,000 on my 95' Plymouth Neon Highline.

**While driving, it just loses all engine power; electrical, lights and dash still fine.
While this is happenning, you can push the gas pedal all you want, just doesn't go. If I press it in ever so sightly, it goes real slow.

Also, my gas gauge isn't being very reliable anymore. It would go to E, then I would put in as little as 2.275 gallons and it would go to 3/4 full! Would fuel pump issues make my gas gauge go freaky too? I have been filling my tank everytime it would get to half just to make sure I don't run out of gas.

I do get that TAP, TAP in cold weather like gMatt22. Would anyone suggest the carbon combustion cleaning for me too?

My car used to be my Aunt's and she had issues with the O2 sensor since about 10,000 miles. She was told that to replace the sensor was EXTREMELY expensive as far as labor. Was she told correct? What issues does a faulty O2 sensor create, if any?

What I am asking is what is the most cost effective measures I can take to get this all remedied? I do have family and friends with mechanical capabilities.

Help me out please! I am a female that wants to become independent and learn how to take care of my car as much on my own as possible and understand my car! Thanks!

 

this reminds me this season in my race car i got 2 laps into a race, and the engine just died suddenly, i ended up stopping on teh track and causing a caution, after a minute it finally refired, made it 2 more laps then died again - coasted back into the pits , it started back up, sat and idled for 20 minutes with no problem, i never figured out why it did that, and it hasnt done it again, all i changed was the fuel pump relay & it never had a problem all season, so im assuming thats what happened

 

When is the last time the car had a full tune-up? Spark plugs, wires, PCV valve and so on? Might be time.

The fuel pump has nothing to do with the gauge, that would be your fuel sending unit. It needs to be replaced as a whole unit.

You can give it a shot, if you'd like but it's common and if it goes away when warmed up then you should be fine. It's probably piston slap and is common on the neons and I know of people who have over 200,000 miles on their engines with the piston slap and still going strong.

It isn't that difficult to get to nor change the O2 sensor. There are 2, one upstream on the exhaust manifold and one downstream, just after the catalytic converter. There is a special socket you can get to aid in the removal and installation of the O2 sesnor.

Good to hear that you wanting to do this. Since the car has over 100,000 miles you will want to ask your aunt if she had the timing belt, tensioner pulley, and water pump changed out recently. The timing belt should be changed every 100,000 miles as well as the other stuff for preventitive measures. You don't want it breaking on you and causing more problems.