so u had two capacitors going i have one 1.2 farad cap. are the optima red tops that bad i paid 130 for that thing cause there suposed to be really good. but the car did it when it was stock. when i had the normal battery no system. and i would turn on the heat it will do it when i'm driveing u can feel it do it when i'm hitting the gass. i have one mtx 7500 and one mtx 5500 running on a pioneer 760 watt. its running on 4 gauge wire too. should i return my battery and get the yellow one. should i put a nother ground on my battery and should i put another ground on my alternator. or should i just run another batter just for the subs cause. its like one everything wants power to go it all takes to much. like when i'm on the highway and theres a little hill if feels like it needs alittle bit more juice to go up the hill. but if theres something i need to do just let me know. thanks

 

When grounding, ues heavy gauge wire and connect to the largest and most solid areas you can find. You almost can't go wrong when grounding. Don't forget to make sure the contact points are clean and bare, I've seen many that don't remove the paint at a contact point and wonder why it isn't working like it should or at all.

 

what ever you do...do not get a yellow top optima battery to run your car....it is not ment to do that...only to hook directly to a stereo or to run hydraulics...the battery is a deep cell and isnt ment to run a car...i used one a while back to run my car and just out of no where the car would die when driving, then start up, then die...over and over again...when i had it in my taurus sho it kept getting stranded...out of no where it would die, then the only way to get it goin was to jump start it...i didnt know it was the battery so i used the car as a trade in on a durango...but the day before i went to a junk yard and got a cheap battery so that it at least had one....then the car worked fine...wish i hadent got rid of it...i would say to stick with the red top, and maybe see if you can get a better alternator...another ground on the battery might help too...your subs might not help the situation too much either though...they might be trying to pull to much power from that amp...mixmatchin subs off of one amp isnt the greatest idea when it comes to power...specially if they are different ohms

 

really it makes that much difference if u have tow differernt model subs. cuase the 7500 is a lot more powerfull then the 5500. that thing is a pretty big sub. i guess i should get another 7500 to equal the whole thing out. they have those high output alternator that are suposed to put out more power. but my friend has a 98 pontiac sunfire. hes got two 12' rockford fosgate subs running off of a sony explode 760 adn he doesn't have a cap, hes just got the otpima red top. his system is real loud and it doesn't effect his car at all. hes killed his alternator before from his system. cause his alternator went dead while we were driveing around. but he got a new one and its been fine. it just doesn't make sense how his car can take it with all his stuff running but mine can't. is it a problem that neons have like they can't take a lot of power usage. i'm gunna start grounding things today, i'm gunna start with the alternator the amp the battery. i'll let u guys know if it has any affect on my problem. thanks kris

 

here is how the sub thing works...if your amp is 2 ohm stable and your subs are wired to pull 2 ohms then it will hit real good and the cap will push most of the power....but if the amp is 2 ohm and the subs are ran at 1 ohm, then the amp is going to find more power to give the subs....my audiobahn imortal did that..the amp was 1 ohm stable and i had the sub hooked up at a little more then 1/4 ohm... and it had the dying problem...however the stereo that i had before that used a 2400 watt audiobahn high current amp used to power 4 audiobahn 12's and 2-500watt orion extreme amps used to run the interior speakers...the same caps were used and i never had a problem with it dying...the amp was 1 ohm stable and the subs were all ran at 1 ohm....and the sony amps are far over rated anymore...760 actually equals about 400 watts, sony stopped making quality amps about 5 years ago...and unless the fosgates are power hx2, power hx or punch he2...the sony amp would have no problem...all depends on how they are wired and the ohms...just a little pointer on the stereo part of it...mixmatching subs isnt usualy a good idea...specially the thunder 7000 and a thunder 5000...is like comparing a geo metro to a viper.....the best spot i found to ground an amp to is either where the trunk latch is(on the car not the trunk lid) or the taillight ground(because obviously it works alredy)...if i were you i would get a differen alternator though...i bet that has sumthing to do with it...

 

dude I think your problem is simply that your a/c comp is running and robbing your car of HP and has nothing to do with any electrical issue... (when the heat is on all that should be running is the fan itself unless you have it on a defrost setting and then the compressor will kick in) in this case everyone has this problem and it cant be solved by any kind of a capacitor or "voltage stabilizer".

 

so theres nothing that i can really do about this problem. theres gotta be some way that i can give those things a little bit more juice so they don't bother me. while i'm driveing. cuase it does it bad when i'm drveing its not like a littlle thing. i re grouned my amp and grounded my battery to my chassis. then i took my capacitor and ran the negitive to the battery and to the chassis and it kinda made it a little bit better. but didn't help me out alot. and the car does the heat thing when i have it on regular heat no defroster. today i'm going to start the car turn up the heat and see what else is running when i have this application going. i'll get back to u guys with the whats wrong. thanks kris

 

so theres nothing that i can really do about this problem. theres gotta be some way that i can give those things a little bit more juice so they don't bother me. while i'm driveing. cuase it does it bad when i'm drveing its not like a littlle thing. i re grouned my amp and grounded my battery to my chassis. then i took my capacitor and ran the negitive to the battery and to the chassis and it kinda made it a little bit better. but didn't help me out alot. and the car does the heat thing when i have it on regular heat no defroster. today i'm going to start the car turn up the heat and see what else is running when i have this application going. i'll get back to u guys with the whats wrong. thanks kris

 

I think there is an echo in here... HELLO... nope didnt work for me... LOL