well im not taking offense to anything, actually if anythign I laugh at some of the replies. Its all good. I am only waiting on my sound card and monitor now. And I need the monitor casing before I can fiberglass it into the dash piece. Im still thinking next weekend will have it all done. Ive got the computer sitting next to me right now, in the motherboard box kinda as a test fit. Windows is in, and the software Im going to be using is:
Winamp with .flac plug in (lossless format vs lossy mp3s.... higher quality)
Streets and trips 2006 + gps mouse
Windows XP + SP2
The obvious drivers, sound card, onboard video + ethernet.

And also, outside my work there is a hotspot, so I can sit outside in my car and get internet leeched for free ... I just need to buy a wireless pci card. I have 3 pci slots free (1 will be taken by sound card) and 1 stick of 512 ddr, so I can put another stick in if I want. No CDROM either, whats the point when you got 400gb of music? And im going to work on xm or sirius aswell. Sometimes the radio is a good change.

 

Dude, I hope you are putting a killer alarm system in that car too... What your puttin' in there is a theif's wet dream...

 

Extra insurance, pay monthly. Its better than an alarm really, because instead of dropping 600 bucks to have it make sounds when someone steals it, if they steal it, I just get replacement value for it, and its less than 40/month to insure it

 

Where do you live again?

Just messin'

 

haha, far away from ohio. Insurance ftw. I think alarms are pretty much useless IMO. Anyone who wants your stuff is gonna get it

 

Oh and if anyone cares, this is the AudioControl line driver I am getting: http://cgi.ebay.ca/AUDIOCONTROL-MATR...QQcmdZViewItem

up to 13V line output (from the 2.8 the sound card gives which means higher amp efficiency, louder, tigher and overall better quality. Though the amps wont take 13v they will probably take close to 6, maybe 8 depending on which amp. But that can all be tested simply by a multimeter and the volume set as loud as I would listen to it (and then add a little to be on the safe side) and tune the system to have no visual clipping on either the input side or output side, and each channel can be independantly tuned.

The 6 channels will be broken down like this: Channel 1 and 2 are for the front amps, each input will have about 2.8v (at max volume anyways) and ill crank the hell out of this one, because I need to split it. I am running 1 amp for 1 speaker in the front. 220x1 x2amps. We can get into the debate that it wont be 220wrms blah blah blah, but its more power that it would be at 80x2. So anyways, im pretty sure these 2 front amps have about 6v input sensitivity. So for channel 1 and channel 2, I will crank up to about 12V, and then each output has to be split into 2, so I have 2 inputs going into the amp. Which will give me about 6V each. (because channel 1 needs to split to 2 channels to go to the amp, and channel 2 must split to 2 channels aswell. therefore voltage = 1/2)
Channel 3 and 4 are going to sub, which is about 7v input, so itll be matched to that aswell.

And since I dont have this unit and havent measured the voltage on this: My sub amp has a passthrough, which I dont know if its true voltage passthrough or not. So maybe the passthrough will come back into the line driver then go to the rear speaker amp (which is just a mono 200w amp @ 2ohms, so im gonna feed it a 2ohm load in mono for the 6x9's and just run em quiet. Just there for a little extra sound)

But I need to buy more rca's!

 

i will keep my opinions to myself......being it is pointless to go through the trouble

 

sounds good to me

 

im not doin it for you, i just dont feel like doin alot of typing

 

NICE, the only EQ I used to have was this 4front EQ, which was 10band 1octave (for those audio noobs, 1octave steps would be like 31hz, 62hz, 125, 250, 500, 1000 etc) but now I got a VST plugin to work with winamp so I now have a 31band 1/3 octave EQ (20, 25, 30, 40, 50, 63, 80 etc) as you can see you have much better tuning ability to remove peaks and valleys. And im gonna use this to run repeated sound sweeps and plot on a graph how my frequency response is to get something like this: (someone elses real plot) http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/atta...1&d=1149646380 and then start fixing. You can see 40 needs to go up a little but 50 and 63 would get dropped a few decibels.

This tuning is the key to winning sound quality competetions. How do you get an eq like this with a regular head unit? You buy expensive **** like this: http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro...ts_id/425.html or the H700 (more expensive than that)
So yeah, external processors cost that much. If any of you guys are serious about car audio and dont have a carputer system you will probably have one of those. Winamp+hardware based PCI sound card = better internal processor. So yeah, comment all you want, if your gonna hate on it again im just gonna ignore it, because clearly you dont understant how serious sound quality competitions really are