spud : that would be excellent... it wasnt very clear to see anything really other than a flat-ish plate sticking out a little bit that i was under the impression was my RMS ...

as for the flyweel , etc ; unbolting the tranny would be whatever mounting bolts hold it in , and unbolt the flywheel , correct? or am i forgetting the cv axles and other suck parts as lines , yadda yadda....

im also pondering on doing a tranny screen while i have it out... preventative maintenance...

thanks
jay hova

 

You might be able to get an alluminium intake off a doch (wrecker),port and polish it for a few more ponies.That and a home made cold air intake is fairly cheap.(or ebay).

 

ok well , just got her back from tuffy , and the verdict is [sm=bs.gif]

heres a hand written prices list from the shop , that i assume includes labor charges...

Blown head gasket $550.00
valve cover gasket $49.95
rear main seal $129.95
POS oil pan gasket $140.00
POS oil sending unit (no price)
both belts cracked $129.95
POS water pump leaking
T-stat gasket $39.95
LOF : 19.95 (wtf is this ? never heard of LOF...lots of fluid??)
coolant flush $39.95
plugs : $59.95
wires : $69.95
timing belt $92.50
total $1566.15 - $1600
my total $1322.14

the look on that guys face when i said thanks for the parts list , priceless...


thanks guys for making this repair possible...
jay hova

 

home made CAI ?? i dont have access to any milling or machining equipment , but i guess if i wanted a pvc cai , i could , eh?

i think i might get myself some aluminum , take it to the local exhause shop and have them bend as needed , then go the the welder and have him do me up a couple flanges... see how that works...

anyone tried one of those gimmicky "turbulence inducers" ...you know.. the spinny thingy? i always just threw a 12k resistor on my intake temp sensor to fool pcm into thinking all air was 35' f.....


jay hova

 

Doesn't work on the SOHC engine. He can port match the plastic one, but the plastic intake is already smooth.

It's called a 3.0L intake CAI. Look around of the forums for more info.

Save your money....they don't work. Read the FAQ's up top for more info.

 

are there any up pictorial step by steps on here? i was thinking of taking pictures of every major step in hte process that way if i need to i can look at it .... you guys interested , or is it a bad idea...

jay hova

 

There are none that I know of on here. If you would like to take pics of the HG removal and install and write up a how-to, it would be very much appreciated and we can post in the DIY forum.

 

you will have to remove the half-shafts to get out the trans.....remove the drivers side mount......disconnect the tranny lines....

one of the first steps you will have to do before unbolting the trans is to take off that little plate....then there are 4 bolts that hold the TQ to the flywheel....easiest way to get all the 4 TQ bolts is to use a wrench on the bolts, and to hold the TQ in place by putting a 3/4 socket and a breaker bar on thecrank pulley bolt......then one you get the 4 TQ bolts out, you can unbolt the trans and everything else....then when the trans is out.....there are 8 bolts the hol the flywheel to the crank....once you take those out and remove the flywheel, you are gonna be looking directly at the RMS

 

ok i understand most of that..i get a little confused whtn you say
"......then one you get the 4 TQ bolts out, you can unbolt the trans and everything else....then when the trans is out..."
as in everything else , you lean the trans lines , mounts , andthen lower the main trans assy to slide the half shafts out? are there alignment markes on the splines that i need to watch , and are there any snap rings that hold the HA in... ?

"..there are 8 bolts the hol the flywheel to the crank....once you take those out and remove the flywheel, you are gonna be looking directly at the RMS "

ok ive only seen a flywheel on a caprice when i transplanted the engine to an el camino for a customer... i moved it with a tow truck , so what my ? is , is the flywheel is on the back of the engine , its a large plate with cog teeth on the outside , correct? this should be bolted to my crank shaft,... im guessing the rms is partially covered by the flywheel , and thats why it needs to be removed?

umm..only other thing i can think to ask is , how does the torque converter (i assume this is what TQ was) attack to the flywheel? or to the trans? thats the only other thing im confused on...

thank again
hova

::edit : im going to be doing all the prep work i can tomorrow , seeing as how i have to buy all new tools for this on sunday... im going to hopefully get to the junkyard tomorrow too , i need a door opening stopper , engine bay relaybox cover... an a fullsize spare if i can fit one... maybe if i fond a donor car some interior electronics (window motors , lock assy.....etc..) ill take pics of everything , then edit it down and do a DIY to the best of my ability...

 

ok
1st: yeas as in everything else, that is what i mean
2nd: there are no allignment marks on the half-shafts.....but there are snap rings on the trans side....
in order to get the shafts out, you have to remove the front tires....then remove the big nut in the center of the hub assembly....then unbolt the lower ball joint.....with a large prybar(or equivelant), pry the lower ball joint out of the spindle(easiest way is to wedge the prybar under the tie rod, and then into the slot in the cross member, you will know what im talking about when you see it)......when you have the ball joint disconnected, you can swing it out of the way, while doing so, you can pull the end of the half-shaft out of the hub.....once the end is clear of the hub, use a flat head screwdriver and wedge it between the other end of the shaft and the trans case....and pry out....this should dislodge the shaft from the trans(if not then just give it a good yank).......

3rd: flywheel is on the back of the engine, and as you described, that is the flywheel....and it is boltd to the crankshaft.....here are the steps in order to get to the RMS......1st remove the trans, 2nd remove the TQ, 3rd remove the flywheel.......the RMS is completely covered by the flywheel, which is covered by the TQ, which is covered by the trans...

4th: the paragraph i rote before about the first thing to do before you remove the trans is how the flywheel is conncted to the TQ....when you remove that little plate under the motor but the trans you will see the flywheel.....if you spin the flywheel, you will see the 4 bolts i was talking about(18mm) these are the bolts that hold the TQ to the flywheel....if you remove these bolts, then when you pull off the trans, the TQ will go with it and will save you alot of trouble and mess....

i strongly recommend that tomorrow mornin, you go and get a HAYNES manual....this gives you good pics and all the step by step instructions you want.....but if you would rather, i can give you all the steps in order to get to the RMS....but it will take a while for me to type it all and try not to miss anything