I have a 1992 Dodge Ram D250 3/4ton with a 360 in it. I know thatONLY oncold mornings, it will turn over but it won't start. If I turn on the ignition I will hear a fast clicking sound. When I open the hood, the clicking sound can be felt and heard from the2blackrelays (56006904-1052) along the top of the driver's side fender. There is another beside thesethat is (56006179-1042). After about 30-40 seconds the clicking starts to get slower and slower until it finally stops. When it stops, the truck will start.The 2 relays control the fuel pump. Anyone know what the 3rd one is? (56006179-1042)

 

I had the same freaking problem, mine got really bad. I replaced pump, regulator, relays, and it ended up being my computer, i fried itself. The crank sensor wire rubbed bald and shorted out. Check that and then look for any codes or fuel pressure problems before you replace computer.

 

Where is the crank sensor wire?

Also, when I tried the ignition this morning, it wouldn't start as usual, but this time no clicking. I removed the relay, warmed them up with a hairdryer, reinstalled them and the clicking came back....stopped....and the truck started.

 

It is on the back of the engine near the bellhousing. Every manual says you have to remove the exhaust crossover tube to get it off. I didn't do mine, i got a garage to do it because i was fed up with it. Does your truck have A/C is so then there should be a fourth one. The fuel pump and ASD on one bracket then the starter relay by itself then the A/C clutch relay. The haynes says there is a 5th one on the other side of the hood hinge and it goes to the Torque converter clutch. I have a place for one but no relay, and i have an automatic?? But the third one is probably the stater relay. It should be running towards were the ASD and Pump relays run into the main harness. The A/C or Torque Conv. wil run towards a "T" in the harness right after the bunch of wires in the harness. Tried repalcing the relays yet? I know it is a long shot and could be a waste but try it.

 

New fuel pump relays... didn't help. So I shouldcheck the crank sensor wire before any next step? If its bad replace it. If not, I'm stuck. I guess I'll buy a code checker. Worst case scenario... a new computer is $150 from Autozone.

 

The starter relay sits right beside the fuel pump and ASD. It looks exactly like those but with different numbers printed on it. The problem is, the starter relays on Autozone and Advanceauto don't look anything like this one... What up???

 

The asd and pump are also different from each other. The cases( black plastic part have different notches in them) are diffrent. Was is diffrent about the autozone ones? If the cases are different then you are screwed the only shape most offer is the fuel pump type. If the prong numbers concern you them don't worry, th efactory ones had 5 prongs, replacement only have 4 because the plug ins only use 4 anyway. The 5th one doesn't plug into anything. What one did you ask for a autozone, if the starter relay is the one you are looking for, i believe that the fuel pump and stater relays will interchange, try it first. Code readers are expensive, check with keys first. If you can't check them there then you won't find any with a reader either. The crank wire was a service bulletin when new, it was suppose to be faulty. Well evidently i had mine replaced at one time and they put a pretty short piece of wire in between the sensor and where they cut it at. It rubbed against the bellhousing and shorted out. Hook one of the diagnostic computers and it will tell you if the computer is getting the crank signal. But all in all it sounds like a computer to me.

 

I can't post pics. If you have time go to the advanceautoparts.com or the autozone.com website and check out the pics for the starter relays for a 92 Ram D250 with a 360CI. Tell me if they are totally differerent (prongs and case) than what you and me have. Got a couple questions for you:

1. I should have the crank sensor wire checked before replacing the computer because I would just end up frying the new computer if the wire is still bad correct?

2. Why does this only happen when its cold outside. If its 70 degrees or more...it fires up on the first time like its new. I would think a faulty crank sensor wire or computer wouldn't be dependent on temp.

3. How do you check it with the keys?

 

See i knew my computer wasbad because when you turned the key to on, not start/crank the check engine light should ahve come on briefly then fade out. Mine didn't even come on. Anyway put key in and turn on, off, on ,off, then on and stay on and watch flashes of check engine light. You'll see a flash then a pause the 2 flashes, which is 12 then it will tell you them in the same manner. I would get the wire checked. I not sure why cold or hot causes it. But mine would get worse depending on how long it sat. When you crank it check and see if you can feel the injectors firing, you should be able to feel a pulse on the connector. I saw relays, the 360 must have a different relay set upbecause itdidn't get MPFI until 1993. All my relays are about 1" inch black squares with 4 or 5 prongs. I found out were yours is and it sin't anything like mine. So the info on what those relays were was wrong. Here is the right stuff: Does your truck ahve 4 relays on the drivers fender, if so then they go from front to back like this: Starter, ASD, A/C clutch, Park throttle unlock.

 

Mine has 2 square black boxes on 1 bracket. These are the ones that click. Here is a link:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...93&PTSet=A

Then right beside this, is one more black box that looks exactly the same but with different numbers printed on it. 3 boxes total. The starter relay on the website doesn't look anything like what I have...thats what confuses me. I wonder if the my 3rd black box is the starter relay

Can you explain this one more time. ("You'll see a flash then a pause the 2 flashes, which is 12 then it will tell you them in the same manner.") It was a little confusing.