And I thought you would wanna see this too. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2486461

 

Yeah I ought to be ashamed, haven't driven mine but twice in a year. Bought this friggin house 5 yrs ago and just ain't had time. But it's time for some fun! Hell I might even make it to the drags this year. Probably gonna get the truckinsuspension spindles, they are only $200, if for some reason this doesn't work out, the wife won't scream as loud. Don't wanna get her P.O.d yet, need a bigger mtr. Picture me with my *** for a hat.

 

Wull fellers, the Dak spindles are ordered, I guess it's chew or choke.

 

B.T.W. the only problem I could see, and it may be no problem at all, in a shorter C.L. spindle used with stock Ram steering,is by moving the tie rods out of parallel with the drag link, may have an adverse affect on Ackerman. Normally the wheel on the inside of a turn, turns a few degrees sharper than the outside. Smaller radius on the inside. Not sure if the 2.75" shorter arms have any affect on this or not. It's probably negligible if at all, and unlikely any of us are goin' road course racin' anyhow. I'll ask around and see what I can find out. Or set here all night movin' my fingers in arcs.[sm=confused06.gif]

 

Lugnuts,

PLEASE keep us informed as to how you are doing on the Dakota spindles, and pics if available. If there is anything you need to machine please note it..... or make several, I am sure that some of us will want them. Thanks for being the guinea pig.

 

No problem. I'll take some pics and dimensions, got a buncha honey do'sgoing on [:'(]may take a few weeks. I've got a derelict '88 with a318, will look to see what's involved on the steering shaft. Shouldn't be much different than a Dak. One thing about it, if the rack doesn't drive well, I can always torch the brackets off and put the stk. strg. stuff back on.This isn't gonna be an easy swap by any means. Looks like some crossmember mods are in order to keep the rack level with the spindles. Also, the earlier weld in mtr mnt frame brackets will be harder to work around than the later bolt on style.I want to install a biggermeanermotor than the 440one of these days, and if the R&P strg makes it easier to keep straight, it'll be worth it.For most, reaming the tie rod holes would be the way to go.An' pot bellied pig would be more accurate. Stay tuned.

 

Looks like reaming the holes will be the way I go too. Went and got the Dak today, pure hell, finally loaded it on the trailer with a big forklift. Anyhow, the rack is shot, the inner tie rods are sloppy, pulled a boot to look, fluid ran out. Only73,000 oilfeild fresh miles. Will see howmy truckfeels with the faster ratio of the Dak spindles.

 

Hey Luggy, have you considered going under the crossmember with the steering shaft to the R&P?

 

You mean turn the rack input parallel to the ground?Sort of. I've considered going through the crossmember at about a 45 deg.angle.The angles on the upper steering shaft U-jointcan get pretty severe, since the column is so far left, compared to a Dak, and those damnable headers are right in the middle of it all. I've even consideredswapping thespindles to rear steer which would have it's own set of cusswords, but the oilpan's in the way anyhow. I've been 2 yrs drinkin' coffee off an on lookin at it. If I went back to fenderwell headers it would curealot of problems. An 1 7/8"weld up header kit is about $250 bucks from Summit, and about a week to build 'em, plus about $200 at the muffler shop for 3" ex. pipes. Chingow. Since the rack I got today is shot,that part of the project will have to wait. Gonna go ahead with the spindle swap, drink some more coffee,and study on the rack idea. B.T.W. Scored an 8 3/4 Sure Grip A-body rear for $150, it's only 55" flange to flange,compared to 64" for the trucks. Dropping the the backend over some 30-13.5 E.T. Streets will be next. I wanna go racin!

 

Wow sounds complicated. Hey if you are a machinist, don't you know someone that may be able to extend the dak spindle tie rod mount, or even make you a set of custom spindles?