1985 Dodge W150 Build/Restore
#1
1985 Dodge W150 Build/Restore
Rebuilding my dads old 1985 W150 4x4. its a frame with axles and a transfer case, i bought a 86 2wd, with a solid 318, basically swapping body and motor etc onto the 4x4. adding rancho 5000rs's, steering stabilizer and Mickey Thompson tread. So far i have this, lmk if you have any suggestions to what i should do,
#4
#7
if your doing a daily and part-time mudder pick yourself a decent gear ratio. bigger wheels/tires youre gonna want prolly a 3.91 ratio. 5 spd auto if you dont already have. then do the basic performance **** like headers and bored out. maybe a lift while youve got all the frame stripped down.
that help?
that help?
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#8
Yeah,gears and lockers are a 4x4s best freind. The selectable lockers are most people's
first choice for dual purpose trucks,but they're kinda pricey. Electric lockers about $700 per axle plus brgs. and seals etc. Air lockers need a compressor,which can be handy too. Torsen style limited slip [Detroit TrueTrac]would be my next choice,but again can be a little pricey. About $450 per axle plus brgs/seals.
The Dana/Spicer 44 front axle should be fine for mild wheeling and will take a fair amount of abuse. {within reason} I'd at least go through the truck and replace all the seals and U-joints,pack/replace the front wheel brgs. etc. Looks like it's already had manual hubs installed on the front. Add longer hoses to the axle/tranfer case vents to help keep the water out.
If you decide to lift the truck flip the rear spring perches to get rid of the factory lift block, as it causes a lot of axle movement and wheelhop. [On my list of STDs] Then add some good springs. Beyond "3 you start running into problems with the drive shaft angles. My Ramcharger has "4,had to readjust the rear pinion angle because of vibration. The front CV will need to have the ends of the yokes ground off some for clearance.
On a side note, a U shaped sheetmetal splash gaurd 4"w x 16" L screwed to the firewall above the distributor. Keeps water from pouring through the gap between the hood and cowl right on the distributor. Saved me some cussin'.
first choice for dual purpose trucks,but they're kinda pricey. Electric lockers about $700 per axle plus brgs. and seals etc. Air lockers need a compressor,which can be handy too. Torsen style limited slip [Detroit TrueTrac]would be my next choice,but again can be a little pricey. About $450 per axle plus brgs/seals.
The Dana/Spicer 44 front axle should be fine for mild wheeling and will take a fair amount of abuse. {within reason} I'd at least go through the truck and replace all the seals and U-joints,pack/replace the front wheel brgs. etc. Looks like it's already had manual hubs installed on the front. Add longer hoses to the axle/tranfer case vents to help keep the water out.
If you decide to lift the truck flip the rear spring perches to get rid of the factory lift block, as it causes a lot of axle movement and wheelhop. [On my list of STDs] Then add some good springs. Beyond "3 you start running into problems with the drive shaft angles. My Ramcharger has "4,had to readjust the rear pinion angle because of vibration. The front CV will need to have the ends of the yokes ground off some for clearance.
On a side note, a U shaped sheetmetal splash gaurd 4"w x 16" L screwed to the firewall above the distributor. Keeps water from pouring through the gap between the hood and cowl right on the distributor. Saved me some cussin'.