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1985 Dodge W150 Build/Restore

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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 09:32 PM
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Default 1985 Dodge W150 Build/Restore

Rebuilding my dads old 1985 W150 4x4. its a frame with axles and a transfer case, i bought a 86 2wd, with a solid 318, basically swapping body and motor etc onto the 4x4. adding rancho 5000rs's, steering stabilizer and Mickey Thompson tread. So far i have this, lmk if you have any suggestions to what i should do,
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 09:51 PM
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Such as?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 11:01 PM
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umm, idk, if you guys have any tips or tricks i guess?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 06:58 AM
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First pick a direction you want the build to go. Set down with the beverage of your choice. Daily driver/mild wheelin', etc. If your gonna go rock crawlin' some major drivetrain mods are in order.
Depends on your budget and what you want the truck to do when it's finished.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 06:59 AM
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You said it perfect. Daily driver and mild mudder. Exactly what im doing, hoping this does better than a Subaru!
 
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 09:49 AM
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What valve covers are those? And what is that little chrome thing to the mid back?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 10:42 PM
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if your doing a daily and part-time mudder pick yourself a decent gear ratio. bigger wheels/tires youre gonna want prolly a 3.91 ratio. 5 spd auto if you dont already have. then do the basic performance **** like headers and bored out. maybe a lift while youve got all the frame stripped down.
that help?
 
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 07:07 AM
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Yeah,gears and lockers are a 4x4s best freind. The selectable lockers are most people's
first choice for dual purpose trucks,but they're kinda pricey. Electric lockers about $700 per axle plus brgs. and seals etc. Air lockers need a compressor,which can be handy too. Torsen style limited slip [Detroit TrueTrac]would be my next choice,but again can be a little pricey. About $450 per axle plus brgs/seals.
The Dana/Spicer 44 front axle should be fine for mild wheeling and will take a fair amount of abuse. {within reason} I'd at least go through the truck and replace all the seals and U-joints,pack/replace the front wheel brgs. etc. Looks like it's already had manual hubs installed on the front. Add longer hoses to the axle/tranfer case vents to help keep the water out.
If you decide to lift the truck flip the rear spring perches to get rid of the factory lift block, as it causes a lot of axle movement and wheelhop. [On my list of STDs] Then add some good springs. Beyond "3 you start running into problems with the drive shaft angles. My Ramcharger has "4,had to readjust the rear pinion angle because of vibration. The front CV will need to have the ends of the yokes ground off some for clearance.
On a side note, a U shaped sheetmetal splash gaurd 4"w x 16" L screwed to the firewall above the distributor. Keeps water from pouring through the gap between the hood and cowl right on the distributor. Saved me some cussin'.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 11:21 PM
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I think what you are looking at is the egr valve.That is where mine is located but mine is not chrome and now im pissed.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 12:39 PM
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Thanks lugnuts, the valve covers, idk what those are, my cousin gave em to me.
 
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