I recently purchased a 91 w250 with 188,000 miles on it. The truck runs great most of the time, but stalls at odd times. I changed the oil, and filters when I got the truck, oil, air, and fuel.

The truck starts and runs great as I stated, but it will stall at times. It would not start once when I stopped at the store, it took about 10 minutes to restart, then it ran and idled great. The next time it stalled I was on the highway at about 65 mph and had engaged the cruise when it just died, like I shut it off, I coasted for about 3 miles trying to start it when it finally started. It stalled when I was in a traffic jam due to an accident , three times, it restarted each time after several tries. I have to switch it off, wait a few seconds, switch it on until check engine light goes out , then crank for a few seconds. I have to repeat this 8 to 10 times before it will restart. It seems to stall more when the temp outside is hot, 85 and above. I have not had time to use the OBD I on it yet so I do not have any codes to date, but I would like to see if anyone has had this type of problem. The truck is a 4x4 with 5.9 v-8 with TBI and od automatic. In general the truck runs out very well, just have this stall problem.
Thanks for any ideas or suggestions.

 

You don't need a code reader. Your truck has diagnostics built in. Pulling the codes takes about 1 minute.

ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS Dodge OBD1 Pre 96

1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.

2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition

CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles (normal)
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure

 

I checked the trouble codes and had three. Code 11, no crank position signal. code 37, open/ short torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid. and code 41, open/short alternator field control circuit. I have no "check engine light" on when running, it comes on when the key is switched on but goes out after 3 to 5 seconds. The alternator is charging well, as the battery stays up fine, the transmission downshifts hard when kicked down, otherwise it shifts smoothly. I could see the engine stalling with no crank position signal, but when I had that fail on my 89 cherokee it stalled and could not be restarted until that part was replaced. Any ideas where to go from here?
I am thinking the crank position sensor but ????
Thanks for any help

 

I would concentrate on the code 11 for your problem. Since it runs well, when it runs, I doubt the timing chain has jumped so the crankshaft position sensor is suspect. The sensor can be checked with a multi-meter.

 

I will do that ,hope that is the problem.
thanks

 

I checked the test procedure for the crank position sensor and it says to test with an analog meter and it should read 5.0 v but the book says for a 2004 and2005, no info on the 91. Do you have any guidelines for the 91 and is the sensor in the distributor as it states for the later models? My book is a chilton for 89 thru 96 full size trucks.

Thanks

 

there has been people in the past that have had the same problem and if you would have tried the search funtion you would have found this info

 

I tried the search function, no luck on anything close to what this truck is doing. I checked the crank position sensor, it checks ok, but then the truck is running, it is so intermittent that I have not been able to check it when stalled as I am usually away from home when it dies. I am starting to think the problem is with the throttlebody injection system. It starts if you turn the ignition off for a few seconds, then switch on until check engine light goes out, then crank for 30 seconds and repeat the process. After 10 to 12 repeats it will start and may run 5 minutes or all day, you never know.

Thanks
snobuster

 

try the EGR valve... had the same problem and that fixed it

 

Low power can be a symptom of TBI but intermittent problems are not normally TBI. The TBI usually either works or it doesn't. I would slap a blank off plate on for the EGR valve and see if that cures the problem. If it does you will know what system to trouble shoot.