broke, will it leak
Broke the back exhaust manifold bolt/stud off can get to it to drill it out after a complete top end rebuild, DO NOT WANT TO TAKE THE HEAD BACK OFF! Have not installed the manifold yet. Any ideas or will it leak ,,,,,
,bad!
Last edited by nealwiley; Oct 3, 2010 at 09:18 PM.
It will most likely leak. You will hear it if it does. Since you just rebuilt it did you put it back together with new or at least really cleaned up bolts? Did you clean out the threads in the head? If you did you may be able to pull the manifold off and back the bolt out with a screwdriver.
Hey Neal, I'm doing mine on my 360 right now. BUT my motors still out.
It's typical for those studs to break. just remember, those end studs are tapped to the water jacket. It can be a bad spot to get a coolant leak. I was never able to succesfully drill them out, while the motors in. There's bin one way I've gotten some out. Take a 3/8 nut, hold it over the broken stud with pliers, then take a mig welder and weld on the stud, till the nuts pretty full. Spray or dose the nut with water. Then I "crack" the nut clockwise and then back it off. I've had about a 40 percent success rate. The weld won't stick to the cast, if yas wonderin. This technique works better with aluminium alloys.
welding a nut on works sometimes but you if you have torches make the job soo much easier. if the bolt sheared off flat with the head welding a nut on would be difficult and if you manage to do that using torches to get it red hot and it should slide out like nothing.
Yes, that's what I'm talkin about, broken off flush. I've NEVER seen one break anywhere else except flush or just below. And no, its not difficult to weld through the hole and on the stud. Usually there's enough heat from welding to loosen. That's why I say to spray or dose the bolt. It's just enough to break the tension.
Normally, you would heat the area surrounding the broken stud/bolt with a torch.
Normally, you would heat the area surrounding the broken stud/bolt with a torch.





