I had a problem where my ABS light was on, simply unplugged and plugged it back in, those damn things were known for giving false codes...

 

Ok. I went to bleed the lines, and noticed that my rear brake hose does indeed have a leak. Problem identified, part ordered. I guess I had a leak for sure, stupidity-induced air in the lines, and maybe ABS problems? Or maybe my ABS is fine.

 

*bleep* *bleep* *bleep* *bleep* And *bleep* for good measure. I replaced the hose, and had the lines on the axle done too for good measure. Now a month later my brake warning light is back on, but only when I'm coming to a stop in bad road conditions, after riding the brakes for a while. I have lost no brake fluid. Would the light come on if it senses wheel travel at different speed? I've been sort of sliding/not stopping when it happens. Not really sure which one it is, but I've only noticed it on slush/ice. But if I reapply the brake gently, I stop. Just like both the scenarios of sliding, and having a front brake leak. I wouldn't be posting anything here at all if it wasn't for the stupid brake light. So far, I'm puzzled entirely. I have full resivours, and what seems like good brakes otherwise. And my ABS module is unplugged.

Sorry if anybody thinks I'm being a whiny stupid kid, but I know a lot of you know way more than I do, and I'd rather not T-bone a minivan full of kids because I can't diagnose my brake problem. I will be looking for any obvious leaks now.

 

With the work that you have done you might want to bleed the brakes one more time. If there were any bubbles trapped anywhere they may have worked there way into the slaves where you can now bleed them out. Other than that the brake warning light switch is on the proportioning valve which is supposed to be self centering. If the bleeding doesn't fix it try pulling out on the stem on the proportioning valve to see if it centers. The light should only come on when a substantially unequal amount of fluid goes to the front or back brakes.

note: When you bleed the brakes the order is important. You should first bleed the RWAL valve and then like normal the RR, LR, RF, LF.

 

Oh. I didn't even know you could bleed the rwal valve. I assumed bleeding the two rear wheels would take care of that. Well, I'll bleed it all again, and then if that doesn't work, I'll mess with the proportioning valve, and if that doesn't work, I'll pay somebody with more experience and demand they explain to me exactly whats up. Thanks seal.