Just when I thought there was light at the end of the tunnel, I went to change the trans filter and put an MP deep pan on my A999. I figured I would adjust the front and rear bands while I was at it. My fluid didn't smell or look burnt and did not slip but the trans did not down shift when giving it some gas.

After draining it, I looked inside the pan and whoa nellie, a Gene Brown rep would have been proud to show this to me. It had at least an 1/8 inch of sludge on the magnet and all kinds of debris on the bottom to include a piece of metal that looked like a miniature screen door handle. I bet that fluid had never been changed EVER. I figured what the hell, it was driving before so I'll just put it back together and start shopping for parts and a trans shop.

I found an MP Performance lockup converter 145K with a 1900-2100 stall but I couldn't find a shift kit for my year though. Lastly I need to find a trans cooler. Before putting it together, I adjusted the bands. I had to use an extension on both. In addition, I removed the front band adjustment bolt to try and find a socket that would fit that SOB. I eventually found one in my Made in Tawaiin socket graveyard. I tried to put the deep pan on and sure as sheet it hit my crossover pipe. Another fab project to do. So I put the original one cleaned up back on. I ran the gear selector through all gears and when I hit 1st it died quick. I tried again and it died quick and loud. I'm assuming the low-reverse band? Could it be using the extension gave a false torque or taking out the front band bolt ? That's the only two things I did out of the ordinary.

BTW I know the manual doesn't recommend it but can Type F be used exclusively in this bad boy? I thought about this poor man's shift kit (type F fluid) since I couldn't find a shift kit for it. The manual says it can be used to top it off but not to refill. Why not?

 

hey sixgun,that really sucks. i have not had any trans problems yet but no one is safe from that especially with the newer trans style.
the older ones;a904-a727, were stronger and almost would never die.
i know if my a518 ever dies in my 93 d150,i will replace it with a A727, the overdrive just makes the trans heavier,and wear out parts more,just my opinion.
put a 904 in it? cheaper to rebuild than a 999,may last longer?? good luck

 

Are you sure you have an A-999 trans?

It is not the extension because I use one every time I do my bands. Sludge is not unusual but hard metal parts in the pan are never a good thing. At this point identification of that part is the first thing you should do. Any good trans mechanic should be able to ID that part. What size is miniature? (1 inch, quarter inch?) If you can post a picture I might be able to help but no guaranties.

Type F fluid is used in the Torqueflite trans in all race applications by folks that can't afford specialty racing fluids. Type F has more additives than Dexron to prevent slippage and gives quicker band application and less slippage. All fluids are compatible (I know this flies in the face of conventional wisdom but it is true non the less) but you may not like the shift results if you try type F. Even if you change to type F the results will be hard to control because most of the fluid is trapped in the converter and dilution can limit the results you are seeking.

 

The A-999 was a heavier duty version of the A-904 and had lower first and second gear ratios for heavier vehicles. If I were going to change trannys I would just go to the A-727 and get the best. Just my opinion.

 

Yeah my heart sank when I saw that pan to say the least. Since this was supposed to be an econo build, I was thinking of keeping the A-999. I am 99% sure it is since it was on the sticker under the hood with the options. That sticker was almost white and unreadable but when I peeled it off and put a white background and some light to it this is what it had:

STD Duty 3spd Auto A998/A99
(I don't know if the last 9 was left off or illegible)
Lock up torque converter

The numbers stamped on the trans pan rail were:

PK4505159 0610 6138

Speaking of which, what exactly is the difference between a lockup converter and a non-lockup. From what I've read it seems to be the electronics part of it but it's greek to me to be honest. Since I screwed up a Camaro tranny way back when, I tend to leave it to the professionals. LOL Ever drank too much wine and get that sick feeling everytime you smell it afterwards. Trans fluid is that way for me now. Smells like money and sad times.

If on the slight chance I decide to go A727, how about bolt pattern. I know there's the small block and big block bell difference but what about V6? Is that a different one altogether? I know my slant 6 bell pattern was the same as a small block. The odds of finding a 727 on a V6 would be a chance in a million.

There's a reputable local place that rebuilt my tranny for the 79 pickup for a great price. They don't do installs, you have to take it to them out of vehicle. Saved a lot of money though.

I did save the piece just in case. I'll try to get a pic up later, gonna get some BBQ here shortly at the brother-in-laws today. Doin' that Easter thing. Hey I really appreciate the fast responses - I didn't expect any on Easter. Any ideas on the 1st geart thing? With the price of trans fluid OMG I don't want to drain it to adjust the low/reverse band again. Do you think taking the front band adjustment bolt completely out would do anything?

 

 

My experience lies with the 727 trans. That part is not in a 727 so I can't positively ID it for you but your trans shop should have no problem. It looks like a bearing cup holder.

Removing the adjuster bolt could allow the band adjuster linkage to move out of alignment or even fall out. This would prevent you from adjusting the front band correctly until the linkage is put back into alignment.

At this point I would go down to the trans shop, ID that part, and ask if it is something you can replace yourself. If you can do it can you get a replacement part. If this is possible I would then drop the pan do the work and check the alignment of the front band linkage and readjust it. If it is not possible you are looking at a rebuild.

 

Sometimes, specially when the engine is cold, my reverse gear does not engage, once it engages there is no slippage or anything. Could this be a sticking valve or band adjustment issue? I put some Lucas transmission additive i it but it does not seem to have changed much. One of the things I did notice is that the fluid level is higher than it should be.

 

did you check it in park or in neutral because if you check it while in park it will seem higher than it should be. this is why in the manuals it says to check trans fluid level while in neutral.

 

I believe the lockup torque converter allows you to have the torque converter spin at a perfect 1:1 speed in top gear without a heavy load. It just lets you run at a slightly lower rpm than if the torque converter was still . . . converting torque? I'm pretty sure the control of that is computerized. And yeah, I'm pretty sure the bolt pattern will match up. As of my understanding, the v6 was just a 318 with 2 cylinders lopped off.