it should have the pickup type.

 

Are the pick-ups replaceable without pulling the whole distributor?

 

The pick-ups can be replaced without removing the distributor. Be very careful not to drop the small screws.

 

Knowing my me, that'll be the first thing I do ! If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all!

 

New distributor, cap, rotor, wires and a coil from a running 318 and still nothing! I have checked and rechecked everything and came up empty. Everything I've tested says this truck should be running, but it still has no fire. What am I missing?

 

i think you must have a bad wire somewhere. i have reread through this thread and i think you have replaced almost everything. have you check to make sure all the fuses have power when the key is on?

 

Yes all the fuses have power and I have 12v at the coil. I'm starting to think I'll have to retrofit it to a points type to get it going.

 

you would not have to "retrofit it to a points type to get it going". you would just have to get rid of the computer and replace it with the other type of ignition system. i am guessing you may have a bad wire somewhere. if you can find a parts car, truck or van to pull the wiring harness out of and use the spark control module, ballast resister and all the connections you need it might be cheap and simple. i am still a bit stunned that the Ignition Control Module Connector is $47.30 but the ballast resister and spark control modules are $26. just seems too expensive for a plug.

 

Could the ignition switch be bad? I know some fords that will still let the motor crank but won't start with a bad switch. How do I test the bulkhead connector?

 

How many 2 wire connectors are coming out of your distributor?