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86 w150 Motor Swap

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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:41 PM
  #11  
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Sounds like vacuum leak/s to me. Played with spark timing as well?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 07:09 AM
  #12  
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Mounts don't cause vibration. Moving parts cause vibration. Did the new engine run properly before the swap? Was it a completely assembled engine or did you swap out parts other than the TQ and flex plate?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 03:41 PM
  #13  
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Thats what I was thinking was some sort of leak but I wont have time to check till this weekend. I cant think of where it would be leaking from though. I unpluged the vaccum advance at one point but that didnt help. Ill have to find a timing light.
The only parts I changed was the distributor cap, plugs and wires. The flex plate was still on the motor when I got it and I was told the torque convertor wouldnt need to be changed.
I saw a video of the motor before the pulled which was only a two weeks before I fired it up and it seemed to run fine. It is sapposed to have a small cam in it because it came from an rv so I know the idle might not be completly smooth.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 04:00 PM
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Until you get a light you can mark the base of the distributor and the block with a scribe. Then you can turn the distributor a bit either way to see if you can get it to run. With the marks you can always go back to where you are.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 02:45 PM
  #15  
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Heres some pictures of my first motor swap
 
Attached Thumbnails 86 w150 Motor Swap-old-motor-optimized.jpg   86 w150 Motor Swap-new-motor-optimized.jpg   86 w150 Motor Swap-picture-001-optimized.jpg  
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 03:17 PM
  #16  
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How do you tell if the Harmonic balancer is bad. I dont think it is but just wanna check.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 03:31 PM
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Pull the number one plug and stick a wooden dowel in the plug hole so you can feel the piston move in the cylinder as someone turns the crankshaft with a socket on the balancer bolt. When the piston stops rising you are at physical TDC and the mark on the balancer should be close to the TDC mark on the timing indicator.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 06:24 PM
  #18  
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if you didn't use the B&M flex-plate or the converter with the balance weights (from the donor) you are going to have a vibration....318's are internally balanced whereas 360's are externally balanced and the weight is on the converter. Do not run it long without fixing it or you will tear the main bearings right out of the engine and\or the main shaft in the transmission!
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 10:24 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by sls001
if you didn't use the B&M flex-plate or the converter with the balance weights (from the donor) you are going to have a vibration....318's are internally balanced whereas 360's are externally balanced and the weight is on the converter. Do not run it long without fixing it or you will tear the main bearings right out of the engine and\or the main shaft in the transmission!
I used the flex plate that was on the 360 orginally. I thought that was all I needed.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 10:43 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by dairy
I used the flex plate that was on the 360 orginally. I thought that was all I needed.
No it is not...the balance weight is on the converter so you need to use the B&M flex plate or the converter from the donor which isn't a good idea if you don't know the condition of the trans and it is the same (727 non-lock up).

Now you could get a new converter if you know which balance you need and\or add the correct weights...Mopar used to offer the weight kits but I have not seen them in many years (I have not looked recently)...although the B&M flex-plate works great.
 
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