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86 w150 Motor Swap

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  #21  
Old 04-05-2012, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by sls001
No it is not...the balance weight is on the converter so you need to use the B&M flex plate or the converter from the donor which isn't a good idea if you don't know the condition of the trans and it is the same (727 non-lock up).

Now you could get a new converter if you know which balance you need and\or add the correct weights...Mopar used to offer the weight kits but I have not seen them in many years (I have not looked recently)...although the B&M flex-plate works great.
F*** well ive driven it proabably 200 miles the way it is.
 
  #22  
Old 04-10-2012, 09:51 AM
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You can get a fluid filled harmonic balancer for $200, but I doubt it's a balancing problem that's causing it to vibrate. You can feel an out of balance motor at high rpm, but most people wouldn't notice much at lower operating speeds unless it's seriously overbalanced, which isn't the case here, since it gets worse at higher RPM's.

Did you do a compression test on this engine? Usually, when a motor vibrates that badly, it's caused by either a firing problem, or a cylinder (or two) that have low compression, causing uneven power distribution.

Do a wet/dry compression test on all 8 holes, I'm betting you'll find that you'll find a couple of cylinders in sequence that are either low on compression, or not firing well, that's causing the bad vibration at higher RPM's.

I hate to ask, but are you 100% sure you have the firing order right? Your problem could also be caused by a pair of swapped plug wires. Usually, it's the 5 and 6 wires. Done it myself enough to know it can happen easy, and to the best of us.
 
  #23  
Old 04-17-2012, 08:17 PM
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I hate to say your wroung because you did give good advice but I swapped the torque convertor and all THOSE problems are gone. I can tell you how I guessed it was the convetor but I have another problem I need solved.

So I went mudding and put it in 4 wheel drive. It worked great did what I needed and then took it out. Next spot I needed it, it wouldnt go. Many steps later I found out it was a vaccum problem.

There are two vaccum lines I know of that run to the drivetrain. One goes to the intake manifold. The other ran to a "valve" on the passanger exhaust manifold. Now when I pulled that hose you could tell that there was a pressure built up. I hooked it back up same thing allowed 4x4 once then not again. So for the fun of it I connected that line to the intake manifold. Now it works fine except when you slow down the 4x4 light goes off(I belive its still in 4x4). Any advice on how to make it work without harming anything.
 
  #24  
Old 04-18-2012, 11:04 AM
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Hey, don't worry about me being wrong, I'm glad to be wrong when it's cheaper being wrong than right.

The vacuum line you're talking about, not sure what it is but if your 4x4 light goes off when you slow down that probably means you have a vacuum leak somewhere, provided your 4x4 is vacuum operated like mine is.

One of these guys who really knows these things well will come by soon and tell you all about it. Most of my vacuum stuff is unhooked and unused, so I'm not the best person to answer this one
 
  #25  
Old 04-18-2012, 12:47 PM
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A vacuum line runs from the engine intake manifold to the accumulator ball on the left frame beside the trans. From the ball a line runs to the vacuum switch on the top rear of the T-case. A line runs up to the engine bay from the switch to a filtered vent on the passengers fender. Two lines run from the switch to the vacuum motor on the front axle by the drivers feet.

If the vent is hooked to anything but that filtered vent fitting the venting process may not work more than once if at all. There should not be pressure at that hose. It should be vacuum.

The 4x4 light switch is actuated by the vacuum motor shaft that is pulled in and out by the vacuum motor diaphragm. As the motor shaft moves in it engages the front axles by moving a coupling with a shift fork that is held on the shaft by c-clips.
 



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