'85 D150 project truck
#1
'85 D150 project truck
So here's what I currently got:
'85 D150
slant 6 engine
HEI ignition,mini alternator and starter
A833 OD tranny from a '74 road runner
small bolt pattern front rotor and rear axle (3.55 gears)
great condition body (albeit many different colors :P)
side exit 2.5in exhaust
And here's the general plan,thinkin kind of a mild street/strip machine:
400 ci big block
8 bolt Dana 60 and 3/4 ton springs from an '83 D250
8 bolt front rotors and 3/4 ton coil springs to compensate for the extra weight of the big block
dual side exit exhaust
flat black paint job with some skulls and flames
and hopefully a custom dash at some point.
So my first question is, how hard is it to mate a big block to a 833? I know theres something about machineing the Input Bearing Retainer down, but im not sure exactly. Any help would be appreciated.
'85 D150
slant 6 engine
HEI ignition,mini alternator and starter
A833 OD tranny from a '74 road runner
small bolt pattern front rotor and rear axle (3.55 gears)
great condition body (albeit many different colors :P)
side exit 2.5in exhaust
And here's the general plan,thinkin kind of a mild street/strip machine:
400 ci big block
8 bolt Dana 60 and 3/4 ton springs from an '83 D250
8 bolt front rotors and 3/4 ton coil springs to compensate for the extra weight of the big block
dual side exit exhaust
flat black paint job with some skulls and flames
and hopefully a custom dash at some point.
So my first question is, how hard is it to mate a big block to a 833? I know theres something about machineing the Input Bearing Retainer down, but im not sure exactly. Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by grimm; 04-28-2012 at 03:20 PM.
#2
I was reading on http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/4sptech.shtml that to make an OD 833 mate with a big block, either get a bellhousing that accepts a 4.80 bearing retainer, or have a 5.125 bearing retainer ground to 4.80 and a 4.35 diameter retainer bellhousing bored to 4.80. But couldn't one just get the bellhousing bored to 4.80 and buy the 4.80 bearing retainer?
Btw looking at this http://www.keislerauto.com/vmchk/mop...ypage_acc.html bellhousing.
Btw looking at this http://www.keislerauto.com/vmchk/mop...ypage_acc.html bellhousing.
#3
So currently working on getting the 400 for it. Its from a '77 (or was it '78?) D300. The guy bought it rebuilt and only put 10-15,000K on it before he parked the truck about 6 years ago. He wants $1500 for it and that includes the rad, mounts, and all the accesories with it (alternator, water pump, etc.). I just gotta get out there soon and do some stuff on it before trying to start it.
On another note I got my dome light installed, except that the guy who had it before disconected the switch from the door, so the light stays on all the time. Gotta rewire that and also hooked up a little light he had under the glove box to a switch in the dash.
On another note I got my dome light installed, except that the guy who had it before disconected the switch from the door, so the light stays on all the time. Gotta rewire that and also hooked up a little light he had under the glove box to a switch in the dash.
#4
that don't make sense. how does the light stay on all the time if the switch is disconnected? i would first check the dimmer switch and make sure the light switch is not on. if that is all good you may want to make sure you have the proper 1004 size light bulb in there. any other bulb other than a 1004 will stay on when installed.
#5
#6
i understand how the switch works. i have a feeling there may be the wrong light bulb installed. cutting the wire should be the same as having the door closed. the wire need a ground connection to turn the light on but if you install the wrong bulb it will pull a ground from the socket instead of the wire like it is suppose to.
#7
I see what your saying. Ill have to check and see what bulb I had in there and change it if need be.
As for the 400 the guy is gonna get it running for me, so it saves me having to do that. Once I go over and hear/see it running then ill give him a down payment and hopefully pull it in the near future. Hoping that I can use the clutch and flywheel so that I only have to buy a bellhousing but we shall see.
Pulled the Dana 60 off the '83 D250. It is a sure grip rear end so that made my day. Pulled all the drum garbage off and cleaned the hubs up, planning to paint them with some POR-15 and maybe the axle too, then shes ready for the disc brakes. Was gonna swap the springs in with the axle but I noticed the bolts holes for the spring perches are bigger for the 3/4, so probably not going to swap the suspension over, at least not at this time.
As for the 400 the guy is gonna get it running for me, so it saves me having to do that. Once I go over and hear/see it running then ill give him a down payment and hopefully pull it in the near future. Hoping that I can use the clutch and flywheel so that I only have to buy a bellhousing but we shall see.
Pulled the Dana 60 off the '83 D250. It is a sure grip rear end so that made my day. Pulled all the drum garbage off and cleaned the hubs up, planning to paint them with some POR-15 and maybe the axle too, then shes ready for the disc brakes. Was gonna swap the springs in with the axle but I noticed the bolts holes for the spring perches are bigger for the 3/4, so probably not going to swap the suspension over, at least not at this time.
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#8
So this week I wired in my map light and door switch following this wiring diagram . However, the lights still don't go out when I close the door, though it does dim. Also, I was driving home late last night and turned my dash lights on, they are way dimmer than before, probably about 33% of what they were. Not sure what I did that caused this :/ On a positive note though, the key/headlight buzzers work now. If anyone could shed some light on this id be sure be grateful