35's Without Regearing??
#21
#22
I'm currently looking into the Superlift, so far it looks like a decent kit. Still wondering, am I going to need a leveling kit because the front springs are 5.5 in and the back are only 5. To me this seems like it will make my front end stick up quite a bit. Any comments on that? Also 2x1972, how are the 35's working with the 3.55 rear gearing. I want to run 35's, but was told it is hard on the truck and is a bad idea? The help is much appreciated!
Good point here, both of my manual transmissions are known for being some of the stoutest designed ever built, and your auto, well, isn't . And wolfie is also right about the power loss too. I am in charge of clutch slippage instead of a torque converter, so much less drivetrain loss is experienced.
#23
I went out and measured, and the front of the truck is about an inch lower, so the half an inch will balence it out. There are a couple reasons why I'm not to keen on doing a shackle lift, 1 my stock springs are shot and sagging quite a bit, and i need new ones. My logic is rather than buy new stock springs, i might as well by lifted springs. 2 In order to get my hangers off now, i would be grinding for hours 3 I think they look kinda funny (just my opinion). As far as why i want a stiffer suspension, it makes it feel "truckier" which I like. And also I work for my grandpa on the farm during the summer, and i might be doing minimal hauling (not a lot, we got other trucks/tractors for that) but in case i do, i don't want my rear bumper riding on the ground.
#24
Ahhh, ok, now it makes more sense that you are regearing. Yeah, from the other forms i read, 3.55 with an auto and 35's dont mix. I was looking for a truck with a manual, but found that they are not very common in first gen trucks (at least not in my area). I found one, went and test drove it, and i like it. But it was covered in rust, if you weren't close to it and saw it you would think it was painted rust brown. Also the power steering pump was about to go, and the front seal on the engine was leaking and i didnt want to deal with that. If i were to find a manual in decent condition, I would most likely buy it. Thanks for the help everybody and keep it coming!!
#25
I'm not a real big guy. I'm like 5'11", 180lbs, and built like a gazelle, not a gorilla. But, I have done some pretty amazing things with leverage to get heavy objects into my stock height truck. For example, to get a 400 pound cast iron bathtub into my truck, I'd roll it onto it's side, catch the tailgate with one leg, roll it so that the legs are in the air, slide the tub over to the center of the tailgate, slide it up onto the gate until its at a 45 degree angle, get in the truck and step on the end thats in the truck until the other end comes up, then hop out of the truck and shove it in.
My point isn't show you how to scrap a bathtub, but to show you how important leverage is for loading ridiculously large objects. If you can't catch the tailgate with that first leg, or can't get it to near a 45 degree angle to shift the weight, you'll never be able to load something like that by yourself.
I know it seems like I jumped to conclusions, but the only reason I can think of that the bumper would be dragging is if you had a ton or two of something in the bed. Even if its something like 100lb feed sacks, instead of a few very heavy objects, its still much easier to lift x number of some heavy object to waist height rather than chest height. If the truck would be more used for something like hauling baby tomato plants, then by all means, don't hesitate to send your suspension skyward.
#26
I mean minimal as occasional, and i guess "bumper riding on the ground" is bad wording, I just don't want my rear end to be a lot lower than the front end, but you are right on the fact that it would take more weight than the truck could handle to put the bumper on the ground. I'm not to worried about getting items into the truck because about 95% of any heavy hauling i will do, will be on the farm. And ill just put the item in the loader on the tractor and raise it up to bed height, and slide it across on to the truck
#28
#29
Good point here, both of my manual transmissions are known for being some of the stoutest designed ever built, and your auto, well, isn't . And wolfie is also right about the power loss too. I am in charge of clutch slippage instead of a torque converter, so much less drivetrain loss is experienced.
Sorry, forgot to mention that I run a performance converter and the A999 has lower 1st and 2nd gears.As far as the baby tomatoes.... yum yum.