post-header install engine issues. help?
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post-header install engine issues. help?
I bought a 1990 w150 with an exhaust leak at auction. Its got a 318 Holley efi. The headers for the engine were cheaper and easier to find than a replacement manifold, so I figured why not? Now I run flowtechs with bolt-on purple hornies glasspacks, one on each side. This involved removing the 02 sensor, which I doubt was still working, along with disconnecting the majority of the egr/emissions control. The guys at the dodge shop said this wouldn't effect performance too badly, if at all. Now I am losing power on the acceleration with semi-frequent engine cut-outs. Not really sure where to start with this one, so turning to the older and wiser? Ideas? Thanks
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I thought so, but two different dodge shops said it was fine. I had to remove the secondary exhaust circulation as there was no where for it to circulate to with no manifold. That's it. I have a bung I can weld on to the exhaust for a new sensor, but I will need an o2 extender line and new sensor. There is really no other way? I am almost positive the sensor was dead anyway and I have yet to get a CEL
Legend
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: orangeville ontario
if the truck ran good the sensor must have been doing its job. plus a new o2 sensor is not that expensive. rockauto has the ntk ones for $34 plus shipping. i don't know if the older trucks are like the new trucks but i know the new truck are suppose to like the NTK brand o2 sensors the best.
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I doubt you will still be able to find the extension harness any longer. I looked a little last year when I was installing my headers but ended up just extending the wires. If you end up extending the wires be certain to select the correct gauge wire, good (insulation free) splice connectors, and soldier them.
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http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cei-109210
So would a set of these work? After looking its about 3ft and change to the reducer neck of my glasspack, which is where I would bore and weld the bung.
So would a set of these work? After looking its about 3ft and change to the reducer neck of my glasspack, which is where I would bore and weld the bung.
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Record Breaker
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
I ran without an o2 sensor for a few months with no problems. At least none that went away when I changed it, anyway. I would say the problem lies elsewhere. Maybe a leak or something caused by ripping out the EGR.
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What were your issues? I drove today and the stalling is getting progressively worse. Its cutting out for a fraction of a second and has almost no power unless I am mashing the gas. Feels like fuel, but where else could do that but the o2?
Legend
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: orangeville ontario
if the o2 sensor is not there your computer will runs rich because it does not have the o2 sensor to lean it out so you will be dumping fuel out the tail pipe. the reason it probably stalling is because it is flooding.
i saw this pop up the this morning in the 2nd gen section.
i saw this pop up the this morning in the 2nd gen section.
WAltom,
I am a product specialist with Walker Products, a manufacturer and worldwide distributor of oxygen sensors. The symptoms of a failing oxygen sensor do include poor gas mileage, as well as increased emissions, hesitation or stalling, and others. At 99,000 miles, it would be a good idea to change your sensors. However, a CEL stemming from an O2 does not absolutely mean that your O2 sensors need to be replaced. As HeyYou said, try to get the code(s) from your vehicle. Find out what your engine is trying to tell you.
I am a product specialist with Walker Products, a manufacturer and worldwide distributor of oxygen sensors. The symptoms of a failing oxygen sensor do include poor gas mileage, as well as increased emissions, hesitation or stalling, and others. At 99,000 miles, it would be a good idea to change your sensors. However, a CEL stemming from an O2 does not absolutely mean that your O2 sensors need to be replaced. As HeyYou said, try to get the code(s) from your vehicle. Find out what your engine is trying to tell you.