4WD vacuum questions...
Alight guys, Im needing to know what all of the ports on the Central Axle Disconnect (CAD) are for. What Im wanting to do is run vacuum line into the cab, into a manually operated vacuum switch, which will then activate the CAD. My truck is a composition of four decades worth of tech, and the factory 4WD T-Case mounted vacuum routing didnt make the cut into my new and improved Power Wagon. Truck is a '78, but all rolling chassis components are of '85 vintage. I am guessing that one is vacuum into the CAD that would have come from the t-case once the shifter was moved into 4WD. Other than that, Im scratching my head. Thanks in advance, Scooter.
Thanks for the link. Best one I have seen yet. Do you think that I could get away with a vacuum line from one of my manifold ports to a manually operated vacuum switch then from the controlled side of the switch, tee the line into two lines, one for each port of the CAD motor?
No real conversion just remove the auto hubs and bolt on the manual hubs.
On the CAD axle simply unbolt the actuator from the axle slide the locking sleeve on the axle over to engage both axles then remove the e-clips from the actuator arm, slide the arm to the locked position then re-install the e-clips to hold it in position.
Then you can loose all the vacuum stuff!
On the CAD axle simply unbolt the actuator from the axle slide the locking sleeve on the axle over to engage both axles then remove the e-clips from the actuator arm, slide the arm to the locked position then re-install the e-clips to hold it in position.
Then you can loose all the vacuum stuff!
If you have the CAD I seriously doubt you have auto hubs. There is a solid connection out at the axle ends unless someone has added something that is not stock. I love not having to get out of my cab in the mud, snow, or ice to lock my hubs.
I have moved the switch from the transfer case into the cab just like you want to do. This gives me control over the locking of the axles which in turn adds 2 wheel low to my truck. If you do this you should stop the vehicle to engage your axles or you won't like the bang as they lock. I went this route because I was to frugal to buy the after market cable lock kit. I used only parts that I already had on hand so it cost me nothing to do this mod.
I have moved the switch from the transfer case into the cab just like you want to do. This gives me control over the locking of the axles which in turn adds 2 wheel low to my truck. If you do this you should stop the vehicle to engage your axles or you won't like the bang as they lock. I went this route because I was to frugal to buy the after market cable lock kit. I used only parts that I already had on hand so it cost me nothing to do this mod.
Trending Topics
I have moved the switch from the transfer case into the cab just like you want to do. This gives me control over the locking of the axles which in turn adds 2 wheel low to my truck. If you do this you should stop the vehicle to engage your axles or you won't like the bang as they lock. I went this route because I was to frugal to buy the after market cable lock kit. I used only parts that I already had on hand so it cost me nothing to do this mod.
Also, youre right, I dont have Auto hubs, per say. I just figured he was asking if I had manual lockouts or not. My hubs are always "locked" with the CAD being the axle locking disconnect. So, in answer, no, I don't have manual lockouts.
Scooter
My vacuum lines are plumbed just like the above diagram shows. My supply comes from the vacuum accumulator ball down by the tranny. The vacuum ball gets its vacuum from the intake manifold tree. I ran 3 vacuum lines into the cab to the switch and the vent is in the cab at the back of the switch. I used a small engine fuel filter as a filtered vent.
I used the normal switch that is in the T-case. The switch is a standard straight thread that if I remember correctly is 5/8" coarse thread. I had a **** with a threaded stem that I think was 3/8" coarse thread. I had 2 long nuts that connect pieces of all thread that I welded together end to end ( one was 5/8" and one was 3/8" thread). The stem on the **** threads into one of the all thread nuts and the switch threads into the other all thread nut. When I turn the **** in it pushes on the activator ball in the end of the switch and engages the axles. When I turn the **** out it releases pressure on the switches ball and disengages the axles. I then welded a mounting bracket onto the all thread nuts to mount it under the dash between the hood latch release and the emergency brake release ****. All of these parts are off the shelf pieces that you can buy easily. I also put a 5/8" bolt, that I cut very short, with an o-ring in the T-case to plug the switch hole.
I used the normal switch that is in the T-case. The switch is a standard straight thread that if I remember correctly is 5/8" coarse thread. I had a **** with a threaded stem that I think was 3/8" coarse thread. I had 2 long nuts that connect pieces of all thread that I welded together end to end ( one was 5/8" and one was 3/8" thread). The stem on the **** threads into one of the all thread nuts and the switch threads into the other all thread nut. When I turn the **** in it pushes on the activator ball in the end of the switch and engages the axles. When I turn the **** out it releases pressure on the switches ball and disengages the axles. I then welded a mounting bracket onto the all thread nuts to mount it under the dash between the hood latch release and the emergency brake release ****. All of these parts are off the shelf pieces that you can buy easily. I also put a 5/8" bolt, that I cut very short, with an o-ring in the T-case to plug the switch hole.
Last edited by SEAL; Jul 17, 2012 at 06:49 AM.
Dang. My Vacuum Accumulator bit the dust during my body swap. At the time I was planning on building my own cable lock system. Seems like a locking throttle cable (with a handle of coarse) and some creativity would get the job done. Now I am rethinking the vacuum system and wishing that I had kept some of those pieces. Thanks for the explanation of your setup. Sounds like what I had envisioned. And problems with your CAD disconnecting by itself? I would guess that with the vac accumulator, you have fairly consistent vacuum.





