Im guessing rust is an issue wherever you live? Thats the bummer about building old trucks in Iowa. Everything is rusted out or crushed for scrap.

 

I live in Florida so rust isn't a big issue, but it's pretty inevitable on a 22y/o truck

 

On the starting issue. Look under the hood on the drivers side. There will be three relays. The center one is for the fuel pump. Remove it and clean the contacts or take it to a auto parts store and get a generic 4 prong Bosch relay and replace it and I'll bet the thing firs up right away every time.

 

Been a little busy the past couple days, but got a few hours in today. Went with a different primer, and color, as the one I was using stated for heavy rust only. Finished one side and started on the other.




Right after pulling the moldings off the other side:

Mostly sanded down to bare metal:


I'll give it a try, thank you.

 

After a long vacation I'm back to working on the truck.

I was able to jump the starter and get the truck started, then tried starting it with the key and it would do the same click at first. But after a few tries it worked and turned over. I'm not sure if it's an electrical problem with the ignition or if it's the starter going out.

I also removed the passenger side header as the gasket needed replacement, only to find out that the header is to rusted to re-use (and not have a leak). So I'll be ordering new headers from summit, unless someone has some that are useable they'd like to sell.

 

Could the starter solenoid have been sticking? The starter should respond the same no matter how it gets the power, so I would say that wasn't it, but I don't have much to back that up.

I want to say off the top of my head that a 360 and 4 speed should have been rated to tow somewhere between 5500 and 8000lbs depending on gearing. I can check in my 89 owners manual at some point. I bought a curt 14001 hitch for my truck. I ended up getting it for about $150. The fit is perfect, with no interference to the spare or the bumper. It says its class iv, but the sticker says class iv/v. I've done several hundred miles towing cars with it, and have used it to recover my truck, and to recover other vehicles.

As for the tires, I would run them at whatever is on the sidewall, and only back off if you notice excessive center wear. I still wouldn't run them any more than 25% lower than what is specified though. I know lots of people have lots of opinions on tire pressure, but that's just me.

 

I guess it could be the solenoid sticking. Is that something that fixes itself or do I need to replace the solenoid (or whole starter)?

Thanks for the other info too.

 

In the exhaust situation, the cheaper Summit headers should probably be avoided. I can't even count the number of complaints I've read about those ranging from fitment problems, leaking, cracks and corrosion. You'd be better off spending the money up front on some quality headers like Hooker, Hedman or better with the special coatings. For all the PITA headers are, better to do it only once. It would save you some headaches down the road. Don't know if you have this already but a couple of good upgrades to do at that time would be the special headers bolts with the smaller heads and the mini-starter.

If you want to get rid of the headers and go back to factory manifolds, consider the 92-93 Magnums. They dump at the rear and flow similar to 340 HP factory manifolds according to a lot of sources. Your corrosion and fitment problems would go away and might be able to hear your stereo better LOL.

Do some searches and make up your own mind but definately stay away from Summit headers or you'll be sorry....

 

And this is why I post here before I order anything.

I was going to get those cheap summit headers, but now I'll look into the magnum manifolds. Does it require anything more to go from headers back to manifolds, such as more piping?

 

Assuming with headers that you have dual exhaust so you won't need the Y pipe but cut as much of the down pipe from the donar truck that you get the manifolds from to replace the headers and to connect to your existing pipe. The 92-93 manifolds exit at the rear of the manifold as opposed to the earlier models. May have to bend your kickdown linkage or replace with the same donar vehicle if not up to the task and unbolt your trans fill tube to swing it out of the way.

Since you already have headers and assuming you have the smog heads with the little holes under the exhaust ports. You either have headers that cover these or they should be plugged already hopefully. The Magnum heads don't have these holes so the exhaust manifolds won't cover them. Use a 1/4-20 tap to thread them only about 3/4 of the way through just enough to put in plugs. They look like small bolts without heads and an allen wrench end about a 1/4" long that way they don't stick out. I found mine at Home Depot at a buck for 2 each. Coat with red threadlocker and wa-la. It takes about an hour to tap them. I just did mine this weekend in preparation for a motor swap I'm planning. The motor I'm doing was running headers without the plugs and they were carboned up pretty good on the back 2 and had to drive the carbon out with a concrete nail and BFH. Some carb cleaner helped the process.

If you can't find anything on DF about it go to Ramcharger Central to do a search. I know I've seen some threads there. Good luck either way you go.