I'm thinking this thing only put out 190hp, when it was new. Maybe I should stick with headers for the extra couple HP, and for simplicity. But how do I make sure they'll match up to my exhaust like my old headers did?

Advance Auto has a 20% off and free shipping deal that ends tonight, so I'll probably end up taking advantage of it for the headers.
Now my question is are the Flowtech headers as bad as the summit ones? They would be $114, the Hooker Comps would be $152.
Is it worth the difference to get the Hookers? I assume the answer is yes, but I'm cheap. Is it REALLY worth the $40?

EDIT: Ended up going with the Jeg's headers, and ordered the Curt 14001 hitch from Advance.

 

Was doing a search and saw this. 1990 D250 360 motor like yours.



Also this:

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ex...-_really_.html

 

Yeah I compared my passenger side heard to the summit pictures and they looked identical, then I looked at the flowtechs and they looked identical as well.

So that's what's most likely on there now, therefore they should fit. But the Jeg's seemed to work pretty good for most people, and the tubes are a little thicker. For the price I figured I'd just try them and go from there.

Hopefully after this I can focus on my electrical problems.

 

Well the good news is that I didn't see anything horrible on the Jegs brand headers. I hope you sprung for the coating so you don't have the rust through problems again. Best of luck, let us know how the install went so others can benefit and an update 6 months down the road if you're still happy with them. Hopefully so.

BTW do your headers cover the smog ports on your heads?

 

I got the headers in yesterday (and the hitch). The Jegs headers were actually very similar to my old headers, one bend wasn't quite as sharp. But overall they looked identical as far as flange thickness and everything.

My old headers did not cover the smog ports, and neither do these. But the ports looked plugged up, though not by tapping them and putting screws in them like I've see in another thread. These look oval and filled with something.

But I left them alone and spent a couple hours putting the passenger side headers on. Had to make a couple trips to the store and do an oil change because the filter was in the way. I managed to get the old header off w/o removing the filter but this one was just slightly wider overall.
Also the second header bolt (from the firewall to the front) should be tightened first, otherwise the bolt will stick out too much and the header won't let it go in straight (using the provided bolts and not the special small head bolts).

I drove the truck around the block and the leak was fixed, so thus far I'm happy with the headers. But I haven't put the driver side on yet as my old one doesn't leak and I didn't want to mess with the starter yet. I'm still trying to figure out if I just need a new solenoid or a whole new starter.

 

Those ports may look kinda oval since they angle up slightly and there is a beveled cut because of that angle.

Most parts stores will test the starter for free. Unfortunately, that means you will have to take it off.