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Cab side of wiring harness

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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 11:34 PM
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Default Cab side of wiring harness

On the 77 I got I was told it had a wiring harness issue. It is supposedly according to the old owner the cab side of it.

What can I do to fix or where can I buy a new one at?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 11:37 PM
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Likely on the firewall.
Pretty common to burn through the wiring on the firewall. Only way I know of is to run new wire, but someone else will chime in soon enough.



You gonna post pictures?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 11:52 PM
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so you are sticking a 85 body on a 77 frame and you want to keep the 77 dash?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 11:54 PM
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As soon as I can get it here I will do some inspecting and check it out. Is there a way to keep this from happening.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by crazzywolfie
so you are sticking a 85 body on a 77 frame and you want to keep the 77 dash?

No if I go threw with the cab change it will be all 85 going to try to fix the harness first.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 11:56 PM
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Keep what from happening? Burning the wiring? A start is a alt. wire bypass like I'm going to do tomorrow...it's a start. But if the wiring is already burnt up...well, you've got your work cut out for you.

edit

the 85 has a totally different wiring system.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 12:02 AM
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bypassing the amp gauge on any 1980 or older dodge is pretty much a must do. the connectors at the firewall is the weakest link out of the whole system. best just to run a new wire from the alternator to the battery with a fusible link just like so
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html
The 60s - early 70s ammeters themselves were reliable pieces, it was the wiring that was usually to blame. If you look any service manual of the era, you’ll see that Chrysler was well aware of the problem - in fact, police, taxi, and fleet vehicles, whose electrical loads were typically quite high (and which vehicles typically had a “fatter” alternator) had the two charging-circuit conductors removed from the bulkhead connector, and its woefully-inadequate 1/4-inch Sta-Kon connectors, and run directly through the firewall (with a simple rubber grommet). If you’ve experienced firewall connector problems, you should consider this mod as an option. The second plan is to convert to the ‘80s-‘90s style wiring. Simply connect the alternator output stud, via some serious gauge wire (matched to your alternator’s output specs) to the battery stud on the starter relay. But be absolutely sure you splice in an appropriate length of fusible-link wire into this new conductor!
 
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 10:30 AM
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Hmm.. Im surprised I didnt know about this. What exactly is it instructing here? To replace the ammeter wiring with heavier wire and bypass the connection in the firewall connector?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 10:39 AM
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Replace the hot wire coming off the alt. and run it directly to the battery, thereby taking the excessive load off the wiring.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 08:36 AM
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Wouldnt that make my gauge dead in the water? Not that it was great to begin with, but I like to have everything working as best as it can.
 
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