axle help
#1
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hey lookin for a lil tech support
i picked up 2 8lug axles (im assuming are dodge) both have stamped "44-8F" in the lower right pumpkin web, one has tag sayin 4.09 gear, the other the tag is missing, both have a vacuum actuator mounted on the long tube, wms-wms measures 66 1/2, pass drop, leaf sprung with one spring perch incorporated into the pumpkin housing, disc brakes, auto hubs
according to the both dana BOM's (#610217 2) it comes back a d44 from a 85-86 d600 which in my opinion isnt right... a 44 is a lil puny for a 2ton truck
i am a chevy guy and havnt really messed with dodge all that much, are dodge44's esencially the same as chevy 44's (ie spline count, strenght, interchangability) i ask cuz im in the market to throw a solid axle under my 92 chevy
are these axles worth keeping or best off at the scrapper
can the vacuum actorator section be cut out and replaced
what can be done with the auto hubs... can i swap to chevy knuckles and hubs?
i picked up 2 8lug axles (im assuming are dodge) both have stamped "44-8F" in the lower right pumpkin web, one has tag sayin 4.09 gear, the other the tag is missing, both have a vacuum actuator mounted on the long tube, wms-wms measures 66 1/2, pass drop, leaf sprung with one spring perch incorporated into the pumpkin housing, disc brakes, auto hubs
according to the both dana BOM's (#610217 2) it comes back a d44 from a 85-86 d600 which in my opinion isnt right... a 44 is a lil puny for a 2ton truck
i am a chevy guy and havnt really messed with dodge all that much, are dodge44's esencially the same as chevy 44's (ie spline count, strenght, interchangability) i ask cuz im in the market to throw a solid axle under my 92 chevy
are these axles worth keeping or best off at the scrapper
can the vacuum actorator section be cut out and replaced
what can be done with the auto hubs... can i swap to chevy knuckles and hubs?
#2
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![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k275/slick328/IMAG0075.jpg)
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k275/slick328/IMAG0076.jpg)
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k275/slick328/IMAG0077.jpg)
![](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k275/slick328/IMAG0074.jpg)
picked both axles up for free
ive have searched the web for a few hrs, and cant find any kind of info, everything lead me to ppl having actuator problems, or swaping to diff axles
the only thing i could find is they may be from 85+ charger, w150, 250, or 350
Last edited by stebs; 03-08-2013 at 02:55 PM.
#3
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I doubt W150 or Ramcharger but the others are possible.
#4
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They are 85+ W-250 axles nothing special....
They are not really valuable but there are those that can't afford or find D60's that might be interested in them.
They are really no different than the 1/2 ton D44's other than the 8 lug outer hubs.
The BOM info you got is correct; the spec's they list from the manufacturer (600 series) was just how Dana and Dodge listed it. It wasn't really for a 600 series truck as Dodge would have labeled one.
Edit: you can simply lock the CAD and install locking hubs. As far as removing the CAD section and re-welding; it simply isn't worth the effort.
They are not really valuable but there are those that can't afford or find D60's that might be interested in them.
They are really no different than the 1/2 ton D44's other than the 8 lug outer hubs.
The BOM info you got is correct; the spec's they list from the manufacturer (600 series) was just how Dana and Dodge listed it. It wasn't really for a 600 series truck as Dodge would have labeled one.
Edit: you can simply lock the CAD and install locking hubs. As far as removing the CAD section and re-welding; it simply isn't worth the effort.
Last edited by sls001; 03-08-2013 at 05:20 PM. Reason: update
#5
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They are 85+ W-250 axles nothing special....
They are not really valuable but there are those that can't afford or find D60's that might be interested in them.
They are really no different than the 1/2 ton D44's other than the 8 lug outer hubs.
The BOM info you got is correct; the spec's they list from the manufacturer (600 series) was just how Dana and Dodge listed it. It wasn't really for a 600 series truck as Dodge would have labeled one.
Edit: you can simply lock the CAD and install locking hubs. As far as removing the CAD section and re-welding; it simply isn't worth the effort.
They are not really valuable but there are those that can't afford or find D60's that might be interested in them.
They are really no different than the 1/2 ton D44's other than the 8 lug outer hubs.
The BOM info you got is correct; the spec's they list from the manufacturer (600 series) was just how Dana and Dodge listed it. It wasn't really for a 600 series truck as Dodge would have labeled one.
Edit: you can simply lock the CAD and install locking hubs. As far as removing the CAD section and re-welding; it simply isn't worth the effort.
now when u say half tons, are u refering to dodge or chevy, or is a fullsize d44 a d44 no matter the make
#6
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On the D44's the only difference between the 1/2 ton version and the 3/4 ton version were basically the rotors and hubs. The 1/2 ton had 5 lug's and the 3/4 ton's had 8 lugs that that was for the most part the extent of the differences.
Now the difference's between Dodge and Chevy is both the welded on mount and the cast in mount on the center section. I know that often Dodge folks will use Chevy D60's since the Dodge ones are harder to come by but to fit they have to bow in the springs to fit the Chevy axle. I don' know the exact measurement difference but keep that in mind if you choose to go this route.
Now the difference's between Dodge and Chevy is both the welded on mount and the cast in mount on the center section. I know that often Dodge folks will use Chevy D60's since the Dodge ones are harder to come by but to fit they have to bow in the springs to fit the Chevy axle. I don' know the exact measurement difference but keep that in mind if you choose to go this route.
#7
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I have the same axle only 5 lug, and I locked in the vacuum actuated spline with a simple "zero extra parts" fix:
1. Pull off the housing that is held down with 4 bolts.
2. Unscrew the electrical switch and grind down the spring loaded button on it so it doesn't push against the arm anymore when it is engaged.
3. I used a c-clamp and crushed the vacuum actuator housing down until the fork was slid all the way to the end of it's travel, which will put the coupler in the right place over both axles.
4. Install the electrical switch and there you go.
I am installing it into my '86 RC that I have a 440/auto/203 w/part-time kit, and locking hubs. So I have yet to drive with it, but will have it in any day now.
1. Pull off the housing that is held down with 4 bolts.
2. Unscrew the electrical switch and grind down the spring loaded button on it so it doesn't push against the arm anymore when it is engaged.
3. I used a c-clamp and crushed the vacuum actuator housing down until the fork was slid all the way to the end of it's travel, which will put the coupler in the right place over both axles.
4. Install the electrical switch and there you go.
I am installing it into my '86 RC that I have a 440/auto/203 w/part-time kit, and locking hubs. So I have yet to drive with it, but will have it in any day now.
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