Something else to think about . . . do you have much experience with older trucks? I know you said your last car was a 300zx, and I have no idea how old you are, and whether or not to know if you grew up driving 60s land yachts or not. I don't mean to be condescending, I'm just saying I don't know what kind of experience you have with high-tech, state of the art steering systems such as this 1972-designed marvel.

My point is, these trucks just steer differently. Its not like a 2nd gen ram or any other newer truck, and certainly not like most modern cars, or anything with rack and pinion steering. My ranger and my dodge have nearly the exact same front suspension setup but on a different scale, but feel absolutely nothing alike, since one has a steering box, and one has a rack and pinion. They have (in my experience) a really powerful assist system, and a really soft on-center feel. You never know what to expect, and I'm not trying to be condescending or anything. You just never can tell what somebody's past experiences are. Most people over the age of 30 who drive my truck say, "Ahhhh, it drives just like my dad's old 1974 Detroital Motors Fartyacht", but people under about 30, unless they also own an old car, generally think there is something wrong with it.

 

I actually get what you are saying and where you are coming from "wontacceptthis". And am not offended.

I've always driven sports cars for the most part. And most likely rack and pinion type. So now you know what kind of feel I'm used to when driving in general. I took big rig driving lessons once many years ago and the instructor told me i was driving the semi like it was a sports car lol.

THis truck definitely doesn't drive like a sports car. And I've had to get used to it and change my driving style/habits. As I get used to the truck in general I'm getting better at driving it and steering it. And more used to the soft in center feel in general. The shifting isn't like a sports car either at all.

I still don't like it tho. And still feel a little out of control sometimes. I feel like when I'm driving it - that i am like actors in the movies when you see them driving, they always seem to be making constant minor adjustments to the wheel even tho they are going perfectly straight and talking to someone next to them at the same time lol.

The advertisement when I bought it said the front end was also new. Altho I've looked underneath and at least one front end component part looks not exactly newer for sure. So who knows.

Obviously I know little about cars. Which is why I'm here to learn. I wish I knew a lot about cars then I could just fix everything myself or know if it's even a problem. I should have gone to auto mechanics school.

It's kind of like my brakes. They were advertised as new too. But it requires a lot of effort to get the truck to stop on my part. But then I read that that can just be because new brakes haven't seated yet. So I never know if I have a major problem or if it's just nothing really.

 

Same with mine, but I'm under the impression that it is normal. By it's very nature, the slight play necessary in the steering box allows the truck to follow the road a lot more than a more modern design. In my neck of the woods, they "fixed" some two lane roads around here by re-paving the road in about 3 ft widths. In a newer vehicle, it feels normal. But in my truck, and one of my friend's old bronco, you can "catch an edge", and get tossed all over the road. In general, I can't really just "point" the truck down the road and expect it to go, unless its a very smooth road. It does tend to need some extra guidance. You will come to be used to it, but you may never actually like it. After all, they don't make them like they used to . . . and they have good reasons for that.

Have you tried bleeding the brakes yet, or had them bled? If it's had brake work, its possible that the brakes may not have been bled well. If you do, make sure to start at the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder. In my experience, new brakes only take a few hard stops to get bedded in, and old pads usually stop fine unless they are glazed from grannie riding the brakes.

It sounds like you do have a pretty solid truck, but with enough minor (but hopefully easily correctable) issues to give you a headache.

 

you can usually check most of the steering parts in the driveway. you jack up 1 of the front tires at a time until it is off the ground. then you put 1 hand a 9 o clock and the other at 3 o clock on the tire and you will push the tire with 1 and pull with the other back and forth. this should tell you if there is any slop in the tie rod/center link. no you do the same push pull test with your hands at 12 o clock and 6 o clock and this should tell you what shape your ball joints are in.

 

I have one simple question and one more complex.

What is the correct tire pressure for a truck like this? The tires on it say max tire pressure is 44psi. Currently I have them at 38psi. Is that too low? I read in a book that before assuming brake problems to make sure tire pressure is correct.

The more complex question I have revolves around the motor. I've noticed when driving that most vehicles on the road pull away from me when lights turn green. Even really big work trucks. And the truck doesn't seem very fast at all to me. Certainly not no hot rodded truck feel.

But here is the exception. When I turn it on for the first time, it sounds different than normal. Like the exhaust is a much higher note. And I notice the aftermarket autometer tachometer shows the revs at around 2000 or even bit more. And if I start driving like that, just by letting the clutch out the truck takes off like a jack rabbit. Like moves so fast its a bit scary almost. And I never touched the gas pedal even at all. The truck goes to 30kmh almost instantly and then have to shift to second and now I'm going even faster, but still havnt even touched the gas pedal.

But on the flip side, if I start the truck for the first time that day, and the revs go high and I hear that higher sound, if in stead this time, while the truck is still sitting in a spot in like say neutral still, if I tap the gas pedal then the revs on the tach go down and the motor sound changes from the high sound to a lower sound. As if the motor isn't racing anymore.

And now at that point if I begin to drive away it is just it's normal very docile self and doesn't launch fast.

So what is the correct starting procedure. Should I just give it a tap on the gas after I first start it up to settle it down? Or is the high revs the proper normal way for it to be driven? Is the motor out of adjustment somehow? What's going on?

And what should I expect from the engine mods with a truck like this? Is it supposed to be fast? Or do the Edelbrock parts and aftermarket exhaust really do little for a old truck of this type? Like should I expect it to be one of the slower vehicles on the road nowadays or should it be somewhat powerful?

The aftermarket Autometer tachometer gauge is mounted on the floor above the stick shifter area. It has two needles. One is black with a yellow tip. And it is permanently pointed at 2500. The other needle is all red and is the one that moves when I drive. What should it be pointing at when at idle? And when should my shifts take place?

Thanks. Wall-E

 

Idle should be around 600rpm. What you're experiencing in the high idle of a choke that is fully closed upon start up. You let it sit there for a minute, then tap the gas and let it idle down and the choke will open up when it heats up. As for your performance issue, what all have you done to it in the way of ignition components since you've owned it? Cap, rotor, wires, plugs? If none of that, check all that out first, make sure nothing is worn or fouled up. I would have to wonder if the engine is running a tad rich. Does it perform better with more throttle input?

As for tires, figure out what pressure you need be looking at the tire, too much bulge is not enough air. No bulge (in front) too much air. Find that balance between. And your rear is likely going to need less air than the front as the rear is light. Keep more air in the front to aid in handling and steering feel.

 

I'd probably run 40 psi in the front, and about 35 psi or so in the rear, give or take a few psi each. No lower than 30 I'd say.

As for shift points . . . about 1800 for economy and cruising, 2500 for normal acceleration, 4000 is getting on it, and around 4500 is around as high as I would take a stock motor without knowing it's health. Keep in mind that your motor was designed to turn about 5000 rpm as redline when new . . . some may tell you that you can take a stock 318 to 6500 rpm. Has it been done? Yes. Is it wise? Probably not.

Your truck is probably making around 200 or so odd horsepower (hard to tell without a parts list . . . it could be as low as around 175, or it could be notably higher), and probably weighs in the ballpark of 4,000lbs. As such, it won't be a rocket ship. But, it would be making a lot of torque at around 3,000 rpm, and would pull well enough that it would put you back in your seat.

Let's put it this way: If you floor it and shift at 4500 rpm, and you can't pass everything that isn't attempting to race you, then there are probably tuning issues you should look into.

 

I think you might be forgetting that it is a four speed. Don't think you would want to take it up to 4000rpm especially since standard transmission trucks are geared diffetently than a automatic truck.

 

I don't think I've ever gone over 2500rpm's.

Since the original ad in my first post no longer exists i will write down the parts list so people can make more sense of this thread.

83 dodge D150 2wd shortbox
318ci. with 4 speed standard transmission
hooker headers linked to racing dumps/cutouts
hush power muffler and 12 inch tips
true dual passenger side exit exhaust rust coated
edelbrock intake, carb, air cleaner, valve covers
K&N high rise filter and spacer
msd disributor, starter, blaster coil, and wires, new plugs
morso valve cover gaskets
edelbrock water pump
flex-a-lite fan and spacer kit
K&N oil filter / royal purple synth. oil
automoter tachometer
new coolant hoses
new radiator
new brakes and front end
PIAA bulb replaceable headlamp conversion kit
updated stereo
newer front and rear bumpers
new windshield
two different tail gate nets (I guess that is cause the actual tailgate won't open!)
grant steering wheel, 8 ball shifter ****, fuzzy dice for the mirror
no a/c, pop up sunroof, manual windows, tinted rear sliding window
brand new 295 rear and 245 front mickey thompson sportsman tires w/ american racing rims

came with some other parts not yet installed:
brand new front fenders
hurst line lock
new tail light lenses
edelbrock fuel line and filter kit (doesn't fit????)
spark plug wire protectors
misc. new sensors
extra oil - royal purple synthetic & K&N oil filter
ugly original rims with basic ok rubber

 

I don't know if the PO was trying to go for a race truck or not, but it shouldn't be a pig at all. That should be pretty lively for a 318 if its running right. But if you aren't taking it over 2500, then you won't be accelerating quickly. I'm not saying to run it up to 4 grand in traffic at every light. Just that if you want it to go fast, you have to spin it fast. Torque comes on quick, but not that quick. Especially with your 4 barrel, the intake manifold, and the headers, you are probably still building more torque at 2500.

No matter the transmission behind it, peak power is still going to be at or above 4k. The trans can't change when the engine makes it's power. Just what you can do with it. He can get more power out of his truck at 1500 rpm than I can, but only because mine would downshift, not because there is any more or less power available there. Also, I wouldn't recommend redlining anything in granny gear if it has it. Not because there isn't power there, but because there isn't a point, since you'd still be going 10 mph.

But let's say he is passing somebody (assuming a pretty average 3.55 gearing and stockish size tires), and wants to go from 45 to 65 in a hurry. He could do the pass in 4th gear, and go from about 1500 to 2700 rpm and do it a lot faster than an auto would if you avoid punching it and downshifting . . . or he could drop it down, catch 3rd at 2500 rpm, and pull till he runs out of steam somewhere in the 4-5k range (which would be comparable to me flooring it, the truck downshifting to 2nd, and then shifting back up at redline).