since it has a standard transmission i would guess it has 3.23 gears just like my 81 that had a /6 with standard transmission from the factory.

in general standard transmission trucks are just not fast even if you bring the rpm up. especially the older trucks.

 

I dunno. I don't see how that works, and it's the opposite of what I've come to expect from my experiences with various vehicles with auto and manual transmissions. Yes, i see how the difference in gearing works, but otherwise I can't see any big disadvantages to a manual at this level other than a long shifter throw.

Regardless of the effects of transmission choice on speed and power . . . it won't run like a twin turbo 300zx, but it should pull pretty good, and shouldn't have any trouble keeping up with traffic.

 

So what is the needle on the tachometer that is permanently pointing at 2500rpm for?

Is that my ideal shift point? Economy shift point? Or am I supposed to shift under or over that point? Or is it just a pointless needle indicating essentially nothing?

I question if I could even get it over 2500 even if I floor it. Maybe that indicates something is wrong with the truck, or the operator. Likely the operator in my case.

 

i think you could get it over 2500 rpm but during normal driving you probably shift before them. does your tach have a light? if so it may come on at 2500 to remind you to shift since you really don't need to go over 2500 rpm.

 

Most of those aftermarket tachs come with a redline needle that is movable. Mine came with one pointed at some strange RPM. It was either like 2500, or 7500. You can move the needle. You may have to take the front cover off or something depending on how it is made. I moved mine the other day out of boredom, and it was really hard to move after being in one spot for so long. If it won't go over 2500, you need the timing and carb checked out. Not just to make it go faster, but because it will help with economy, emissions, driveability, longevity, etc. If you just rev it up in your driveway and don't take it over 4500 or so, you can't break anything that isn't already half-broke anyway.

2500 is a little high for a normal shift point, but it's in the right ballpark.

EDIT: Yes . . . 2500 is pointless for the arrow. It's not an economical shift, its not a fast shift, and its not redline

 

I would not try taking the engine over 4000rpm especially if you dont know what parts are in the engine.

 

Yeah, 2500 is more like redline for a Diesel motor, 4000 is more like it for a slant six or 318 I would think.

 

I kind of played with different shift times on my way too and from work today.

I did get it way over 2500 at least once and the truck definitely went fast at that point.

One of the main differences between this truck and my old car was the exhaust sound. I mean I couldn't even hear my cars exhaust, but then I'm like 85% deaf. But I can hear this truck as it's very loud. So loud I usually drive with beach boys music blaring to drown out the exhaust sound.

But the exhaust sounds really cool when like I take my foot off the gas suddenly after accelerating. I'm not sure if it's part of the custom exhaust and it's supposed to do that???? It sounds like thunder, or fire crackers going off.

So like my point being is that I actually shift according to sounds with this vehicle, as opposed to just at certain speedo speeds which is what I did with my car.

I do notice like sluggish feelings at times when trying to accelerate, and then all of a sudden I can feel the power come in. Don't know if it's the truck yet still, or I just don't know how to drive.

It's suppossed to have new plugs and msd wires. Is adjusting the carb hard to do? I have a little manual that came with it about the carb and think it has info on that kind of thing in it.

 

It's possible the carb is a tad rich. As for the firecrackers going off, that's the typical redneck too-small-a-pipe exhaust system that makes truck pop.

 

If I recall, popping on deceleration can also be a symptom of being slightly rich.

The only carbs that I've tuned from "square one" to "runs well" are all simple single barrels on motors like bikes, farm equipment, and a VW. With a service manual, those were all pretty easy. But they were all stock carbs, and the were all single barrels. Not sure what it would be like on a more universal application and a more complex carb.