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No rear brakes and RPMs

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Old May 8, 2013 | 08:03 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by sls001
They are the same - the difference is between them and 1/2
Oh, okay. Quick question, and not to threadjack OP, but you seem to be knowledgable in this area, what could a normal person do to upgrade the brakes on a 3/4 ton? Because the brakes on my 76 will put you in the windshield...
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 08:10 PM
  #32  
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Other than rear disk brakes the single best upgrade is hydro-boost brakes provided your lines and hoses are in good shape. They hydro-boost is capable of up to 3,000 psi where as you stock brakes are only capable of 1,000-1,500 psi hydraulic pressure.

Hydro-boost brake kits are available and cost less than 700 but you can easily retro-fit one from a later model (1994-up) Dodge. If you look over on RCC a good number of members have done it.
 
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Old May 8, 2013 | 08:12 PM
  #33  
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I don't get it then, because this truck has the stock vacuum system. I guess I'll never know what brakes this truck has on it. They work so well...
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 12:01 AM
  #34  
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Well I tried adjusting my brakes with the auto adjuster thing by turning the star wheel thing. Nothing. Was gonna bleed it but it is indeed seized. Gonna try another shop
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 11:58 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Comrade General
Well I tried adjusting my brakes with the auto adjuster thing by turning the star wheel thing. Nothing. Was gonna bleed it but it is indeed seized. Gonna try another shop
Instead of trying another shop replace the wheel cylinder.
Assuming the brake line is rusted also.
Take the 2 bolts that mount the wheel cylinder to the backing plate out.
Then carefully pull the wheel cylinder away from the backing plate till the line pulls thur the backing plate enough to get visegrips on the line fitting going into the wheel cylinder.
You want the visegrip's tight but don't crush the fitting.
Then holding the visegrip's steady use channel locks to spin the wheel cylinder.
Good Luck!!

Dave
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 12:49 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by xjarhead69
Instead of trying another shop replace the wheel cylinder.
Assuming the brake line is rusted also.
Take the 2 bolts that mount the wheel cylinder to the backing plate out.
Then carefully pull the wheel cylinder away from the backing plate till the line pulls thur the backing plate enough to get visegrips on the line fitting going into the wheel cylinder.
You want the visegrip's tight but don't crush the fitting.
Then holding the visegrip's steady use channel locks to spin the wheel cylinder.
Good Luck!!

Dave
Already at the shop. Thanks though. Ill still keep it in mind.

Shop said I need new calipers up front and that why the drivers side is squeaking so bad
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 06:02 PM
  #37  
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turns out I dont need new calipers.

But they said my rears brakes are pretty much shot so guess its time for disc brake conversion? Any tips or suggestions?
 
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Old May 16, 2013 | 06:04 PM
  #38  
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You can do a lot with drums.

Get you some GM 1-ton wheel cylinders, new hardware and shoes and do it yourself. It will work magic compared to what you have now.
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 01:34 AM
  #39  
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why GM 1 ton?
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 07:10 AM
  #40  
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Normally the 1-ton wheel cylinders are a larger diameter.

Go to rear disks and don't look back!
 
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