No rear brakes and RPMs
Oh, okay. Quick question, and not to threadjack OP, but you seem to be knowledgable in this area, what could a normal person do to upgrade the brakes on a 3/4 ton? Because the brakes on my 76 will put you in the windshield...
Other than rear disk brakes the single best upgrade is hydro-boost brakes provided your lines and hoses are in good shape. They hydro-boost is capable of up to 3,000 psi where as you stock brakes are only capable of 1,000-1,500 psi hydraulic pressure.
Hydro-boost brake kits are available and cost less than 700 but you can easily retro-fit one from a later model (1994-up) Dodge. If you look over on RCC a good number of members have done it.
Hydro-boost brake kits are available and cost less than 700 but you can easily retro-fit one from a later model (1994-up) Dodge. If you look over on RCC a good number of members have done it.
Assuming the brake line is rusted also.
Take the 2 bolts that mount the wheel cylinder to the backing plate out.
Then carefully pull the wheel cylinder away from the backing plate till the line pulls thur the backing plate enough to get visegrips on the line fitting going into the wheel cylinder.
You want the visegrip's tight but don't crush the fitting.
Then holding the visegrip's steady use channel locks to spin the wheel cylinder.
Good Luck!!
Dave
Instead of trying another shop replace the wheel cylinder.
Assuming the brake line is rusted also.
Take the 2 bolts that mount the wheel cylinder to the backing plate out.
Then carefully pull the wheel cylinder away from the backing plate till the line pulls thur the backing plate enough to get visegrips on the line fitting going into the wheel cylinder.
You want the visegrip's tight but don't crush the fitting.
Then holding the visegrip's steady use channel locks to spin the wheel cylinder.
Good Luck!!
Dave
Assuming the brake line is rusted also.
Take the 2 bolts that mount the wheel cylinder to the backing plate out.
Then carefully pull the wheel cylinder away from the backing plate till the line pulls thur the backing plate enough to get visegrips on the line fitting going into the wheel cylinder.
You want the visegrip's tight but don't crush the fitting.
Then holding the visegrip's steady use channel locks to spin the wheel cylinder.
Good Luck!!
Dave
Shop said I need new calipers up front and that why the drivers side is squeaking so bad




