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DIY repaint '90 W250 project

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  #1  
Old 03-07-2017 | 02:44 PM
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Default DIY repaint '90 W250 project

So I've got a 1990 W250 HD, with 60k original miles and no rust. It was purchased new in Arizona in 1990, and bought by the state government in 1998. They repainted it white, and did a shameful job with little to no sanding, resulting in paint flaking everywhere. Good part about the state: I have all vehicle service records since 1990.

The rust wasn't a huge issue in AZ, with the dry climate = no rust. But I recently moved out to Wisconsin... Humidity + salt = RUST. I don't own a sprayer, don't want to shell out $2k to get it done right, which leaves me one viable option: DIY.

There are a ton of threads on how to DIY paint your rig, so this is nothing new. I just thought it would be a cool project to share. I got most of my info from this link, and on to linked areas within.

I'll post pics and descriptions as I go. Fingers crossed for success. Any of you who has experience please chime in.


Original condition: '90 W250 HD 360. 60k original miles, runs like a top. Step 1: remove everything that is bolted on. bumpers, grille, mirrors, tool box, taillights, wipers, etc. I am also removing the bed and the hood for good measure.


Original condition: roll on bed liner, to be replaced


Original condition: paint peeling from multiple locations


Original condition: surface rust beginning to show


Step 2: remove the paint. I am using a 4" knotted wire cup on a grinder, and wore a respirator and eye protection. Word to the wise - eye protection is a must. The knotted wire cup is an aggressive approach, but it gets through the paint, roughs up the metal, and doesn't dig into the metal as long as you keep the grinder moving. For these older vehicles with thinker panels, I highly recommend this method

To be continued...
 
  #2  
Old 03-07-2017 | 04:38 PM
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Wow. Speaking as somebody who lives in Maine, the body on that truck is gorgeous.
 
  #3  
Old 03-07-2017 | 09:10 PM
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Wire is not a good idea to remove paint. Makes gouges in the metal that you will have to smooth out with primer. If you don't have a air compressor get one! A da sander and some course grit pads and go to work. You should also use a good quality epoxy primer not rustoleum.
 
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Old 03-08-2017 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Moparite
Wire is not a good idea to remove paint. Makes gouges in the metal that you will have to smooth out with primer. If you don't have a air compressor get one! A da sander and some course grit pads and go to work. You should also use a good quality epoxy primer not rustoleum.
Thanks for the tips, I am actually really enjoying the wire method. I've test primed the tailgate after wire removal, and it smooths out nicely. Just can't go too deep on the metal.

As for the primer, I've done a ton of research on the long term longevity of oil based enamel rustoleum. The price is right, so that's what I'm going for.

Not arguing the effectiveness of what you're saying... I'm not seeking a show finish. Just a nice "10 foot finish". Stay tuned for progress!
 
  #5  
Old 04-21-2017 | 12:28 PM
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Default Update: Primer

Update: The primer has been completed. Two coats of Rustoleum oil based rust stopper primer, in white. Rolled on with high density foam rollers. Two coats, separated by 12 hours, then wet sanded.

As other users have said, surface prep is huge. I used 100% mineral spirits, then a tack cloth.

Two coats of primer had excellent coverage.



Primer on the tailgate

Primer driver side

Primer passenger side

Primer hood

Primer on the bed
 
  #6  
Old 04-21-2017 | 12:33 PM
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Default Update: Color going on

We chose a light blue called "pool blue" in Rustoleum's oil-based color scheme. By the way: You can now choose from dozens of colors. It used to be only like 5 choices, but they have expanded a lot.

Not everybody's favorite color, but I thought it looked clean and kept the classic feel of the truck.

Two coats, separated by 6 hours (to avoid needing to sand in between). A tip: Living in Wisconsin, it has not been very warm (50s and 60s), and also it has been rather humid. They drying time is very long. I could have waited longer than 6 hours. Lesson is: pay attention to your local climate, and edit your coating schedule from there.
Sorry, blurry. Two coats on the passenger side

Two coats on the hood

Two coats on the gate
 
  #7  
Old 04-21-2017 | 12:34 PM
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Default Update: She's coming back together!

First pic of the re-assembly. Just need to get that bed back on now!

Next steps:
- new tires
- re-do the rolled on bed liner
- re-paint the tool box


Fully assembled, minus the bed


Fully assembled, minus the bed
 
  #8  
Old 04-28-2017 | 08:42 AM
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Looking good! Personally, I like that blue. My cousin has an '84 W250 that he drove when I was a kid that was very nearly that shade, but a bit darker. His truck is what got me started with Dodges; that truck was badass. It's sitting behind his house now, hasn't run in years. I keep trying to get him to sell it to me, but he won't go low enough on the price for it to be worth fixing up yet.
 




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