Doesn't act like it's priming like it should. Think it needs a check valve?? I had a pump just like this on an 86 d250 with it mounted on the passenger inner fender with no problems with it losing prime. Ran the truck last weekend no problem. And now no fuel, I get just a very small amount, took 15 minutes maybe more to fill the filter by the carb. But not enough to run the truck. I even blew back threw the line to the tank thinking it may have sucked up some debri. Changed the filter before the pump and still nada. Supposed to be a self priming pump. Wonder if it's submersible?? Lol. Not sure if I should spend money on a check valve and hope the pump will still work, or just get a submersible pump. But I'm still thinking it will lose prime if the valve is after the pump, I don't think this pump has the will power to suck a check valve open. I'd like to put it at the end of the pick up tube in the tank. Either way it looks like I'm pulling the bed off again. I ran it to make sure before I bolted the bed back down.

 

I would have thought that an inline pump would already have a check valve?? No??

Could try something like a GM TBI fuel pump, something from a 90's era truck. They are "low" pressure (something like 15 PSI), are submersible, and you may even be able to adapt it to your existing sending unit....... but then, wasn't the dodge system pretty much the same thing??

 

no inline pumps don't necessarily have a check valve. i think that is part of the reason my fitech pump fail. gas was always flowing back to the tank when it would shut off. the dodge TBI system may require about 15 psi to run but has no problem regulating 60psi down to the 15psi it needs. i know the tank i am currently using to feed the fitech is the same one i was using to feed the stock TBI on my 89 when i first bought it with a dead fuel pump.

 

The stock pump would blow open my regulator, and flooded the carb. Would literally have gas running out of it all over the engine while it was running. Fouled my plugs. It would wrap my gauge back to the needle well past 15psi. I even have the pump mounted in a low spot. I'll have to try a low pressure in-tank pump I guess. My wife will have me in a pine box if I spend another $1,000 on an aftermarket EFI kit, no lie. I already got way more money in to this truck lol. Rebuilt, mildly built 5.9 Magnum, reman transmission, numerous other small things. But I guess you'll get that with a project.

 

have you tried contacting Holley again to see if they might know why the regulator you have isn't working properly? i know their stuff isn't cheap so if you have it maybe it wouldn't hurt to get it working properly.

 

No I haven't. It's just a spring and a diaphragm. Not much to it at all. Prolly tell me my pump is too much, or sell me a rebuild kit. I even tried a weaker spring than what they sent me for the carb setup. Same outcome, and I could hear gas returning in the tank. I've checked the floats, and needles. Blew everything out with compressed air, sprayed carb cleaner. It ran great the one time the external pump was working, the day I hooked it up. Set for a week and nothing. You can hear it change pitch when it does get some fuel to pump, it quiets down a little. I can't get it any closer to the tank without putting it in the tank. Maybe it doesn't have enough gusto to pull the fuel up from the tank. I'll go get a Napa pump, that's what I had on my 86 d250 mounted that sucker on the passenger fender started everytime.

 

i wonder if pulling through the stock electric pump is too much for it for the little carb pumps. are you sure your adjusting it right?

 

My stock pump sits on a bench. I'm only using the inline pump.
As far as the regulator the directions say backing the screw out lowers the pressure, screwing it in increases the pressure needed to return. It's baffling on how I can hook up that inline pump to a dry system and it worked, and now nothing lol. It self primed worked like it was suppose to and now nothing. I wonder if I put a T in the system and hook up two pumps if they would work. Take the pickup line with a T to two pumps, then T the pumps back to one line to the carb?? Hope one pump doesn't over power the other. Or hook them up in series one pump feeding the other pump?? Summit wants just as much for a 5/16" check valve for the same price as a low pressure in tank pump that I'll have to figure out how to mount in the sending unit. Unless it's sucking air somewhere between the tank and sending unit. I have a nylon line from sending unit barbed to rubber at the pump im using squeeze clamps, maybe I'll try the worm clamps first it's easy enough. Only take a couple minutes. Not sure if it's leaking at the sending unit though where it clips on.

 

I don't think two pumps would really help. That said, some of the cheap electric pumps just can't develop the suction they need, to draw fuel from the tank. Without a check valve, fuel is likely to siphon back into the tank. You *should* be able to put a check valve between the tank, and pump, to fix that.

 

I'll get one, worth a try....... Might need it later never know, lol.
Update, $30 for a 5/16 check valve, lol. I'll have it Friday, along with a filler neck hose, and grommet. We shall see what happens this weekend. I'll keep updated. I'm gonna try to get the strainer attached also some how. I'll blow out the line again, and try putting some gas in the hose to help it prime.