Rear end
#1
Rear end
I知 currently about to replace the differential carrier in my 93 dodge w150 with the 12 bolt 9 1/4 rear end and I知 using the same ring and pinion... I知 wondering what I need to know when placing the carrier back in the case and tightening the adjusters on each side. Any specifics or tips?
#2
Woah. If this isn't something you have done before, you REALLY need to study up on the procedure. There are critical specs you need to pay attention to, and if they aren't right, you will destroy your rear end in pretty short order. I HIGHLY recommend you get a FACTORY service manual for your truck, (not chiltons, not Haynes...) and read the procedure several times before you turn the first bolt.
#3
#4
Crush sleeve eliminator... if you're going to loosen the pinion nut at all for any reason (leaking seal?)
Don't gall the threads on the adjusters or the caps. Was the first oopsie I did working on chrysler diffs.
You need to pull the axle bearings/seals in order to access the adjusters. Tool up in advance so this is easy (slide hammer + attachments.) Keep spare bearings/seals on hand, in case you have to go in there again - they're cheap. I made my bearing adjuster by welding a large nut to each end of a ~3' stick of 1/2" rigid pipe. I forget the size... ~1-1/2"? Somebody else can likely confirm.
Don't gall the threads on the adjusters or the caps. Was the first oopsie I did working on chrysler diffs.
You need to pull the axle bearings/seals in order to access the adjusters. Tool up in advance so this is easy (slide hammer + attachments.) Keep spare bearings/seals on hand, in case you have to go in there again - they're cheap. I made my bearing adjuster by welding a large nut to each end of a ~3' stick of 1/2" rigid pipe. I forget the size... ~1-1/2"? Somebody else can likely confirm.
#5
I made my own by welding a 36mm nut to one end of 1/2" pipe and a bolt on the other end so I can get a socket on it, I made two of them so I can make adjustments to both sides without pulling it out each time. Also you don't have to remove the axle bearings and seals to get to the adjusters, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them while you are in there.
#6
Unless I'm missing something, I have not been able to feed the adjuster tool into the axle tube without pulling the axles and seals first. The 36mm nut is fatter than the axle shaft.
#7
I don't know how that's possible, I have done several 8.25 axles that have even smaller shafts and the tool fit in there just fine with the bearings and seals installed.