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Issues with running

Old Dec 30, 2019 | 03:45 PM
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Default Issues with running

I own a 1989 ram w250 4wd 5.9 LA motor and I知 having issues where if I accelerate past 1500-1800 rpm it makes a pop and the motor looses power for a moment I知 unsure the Issue
 
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Alexander Grimes
I own a 1989 ram w250 4wd 5.9 LA motor and I知 having issues where if I accelerate past 1500-1800 rpm it makes a pop and the motor looses power for a moment I知 unsure the Issue

I have issues with running too. I'm 6 foot but with little bitty short legs. Enough that if you see me running, try to keep up. Oh wait, that's not the running you're talking about, is it. How old is the exhaust system on it and do you live near fields? It could be a timing issue but first I'd check the exhaust. Before you take anything apart, get yourself a good vacuum gauge. Either a boost/vacuum gauge you can put on the dash or a regular one with a dial.



What you want is to pull around 15-17 inches at idle. That's a good healthy engine. However, if your exhaust is restricted, it will show that at idle but when you put your foot down, it will drop a little. Unless there's a restriction. In which case it will drop precipitately. Your muffler may have rusted inside and collapsed, your catalytic converter may have gotten hot from running rich at some time and melted inside, or mice may have built a mouse condo in the tail pipe or muffle. You might even have a little mouse in a uniform at the opening. (A door mouse, get it? Okay, poor joke but I'm elderly yet kindly. )

If you speed up or just do it at idle, watch the gauge. It should slowly drop as you open the throttle. If it drops slowly and then plummets, your have a restricted exhaust. Do this before you pull anything apart. If it runs lower than 15 inches of vacuum, like 10, and the engine has more than 120,000 miles, your timing chain may need replacing. Not a huge job, but not a quick and easy one either. Better to check the easy one first. Then tear into the engine.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
I have issues with running too. I'm 6 foot but with little bitty short legs. Enough that if you see me running, try to keep up. Oh wait, that's not the running you're talking about, is it. How old is the exhaust system on it and do you live near fields? It could be a timing issue but first I'd check the exhaust. Before you take anything apart, get yourself a good vacuum gauge. Either a boost/vacuum gauge you can put on the dash or a regular one with a dial.



What you want is to pull around 15-17 inches at idle. That's a good healthy engine. However, if your exhaust is restricted, it will show that at idle but when you put your foot down, it will drop a little. Unless there's a restriction. In which case it will drop precipitately. Your muffler may have rusted inside and collapsed, your catalytic converter may have gotten hot from running rich at some time and melted inside, or mice may have built a mouse condo in the tail pipe or muffle. You might even have a little mouse in a uniform at the opening. (A door mouse, get it? Okay, poor joke but I'm elderly yet kindly. )

If you speed up or just do it at idle, watch the gauge. It should slowly drop as you open the throttle. If it drops slowly and then plummets, your have a restricted exhaust. Do this before you pull anything apart. If it runs lower than 15 inches of vacuum, like 10, and the engine has more than 120,000 miles, your timing chain may need replacing. Not a huge job, but not a quick and easy one either. Better to check the easy one first. Then tear into the engine.
I checked the vacuum and it read 17 I played with the throttle and it dipped down a little then stayed the same back at idle
I ordered new spark plugs and wires along with an idle air control valve to see if that fixes anything I値l keep you posted
ps. I appreciate the jokes
 
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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Alexander Grimes
I checked the vacuum and it read 17 I played with the throttle and it dipped down a little then stayed the same back at idle
I ordered new spark plugs and wires along with an idle air control valve to see if that fixes anything I値l keep you posted
ps. I appreciate the jokes

Unless your exhaust is only partly restricted, it sounds like that's not your problem. It sounds like your timing chain is good too. How does it act when it falls on its face? Does it sort of bog down or does it act like shutting the key off and back on?

Now, I'm assuming you've checked your distributor cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires. If not, check inside the distributor cap. Look for corrosion on the terminal studs and any cracks in the plastic. If the rotor or studs are corroded, or the cap is cracked, it can do this. This is standard maintenance. Prior to 1972, you have to tune up the ignition twice a year. After that, you didn't usually touch it until 30,000 miles or more later. You just might need a tune up and a couple of hours to cure it.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
Unless your exhaust is only partly restricted, it sounds like that's not your problem. It sounds like your timing chain is good too. How does it act when it falls on its face? Does it sort of bog down or does it act like shutting the key off and back on?

Now, I'm assuming you've checked your distributor cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires. If not, check inside the distributor cap. Look for corrosion on the terminal studs and any cracks in the plastic. If the rotor or studs are corroded, or the cap is cracked, it can do this. This is standard maintenance. Prior to 1972, you have to tune up the ignition twice a year. After that, you didn't usually touch it until 30,000 miles or more later. You just might need a tune up and a couple of hours to cure it.
I replaced spark plugs and the wire set and the idle air control valve messed with it and drove it around for a bit and it seemed to work it痴 self out now she痴 running like a champ. Thank you for your help!

 
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