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1st Gen Ram Tech'93 & older Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve 1993 Rams and older. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
I seen timing chains wear to the point they where wearing into the timing chain cover. Also seen the one with timing chain tensioner that wore threw the plastic pads right into the metal behind it. The big blocks also used those plastic covered teeth that broke off and you would find them in the bottom of the pan. It's your truck so do with it as you please but it is from the one of the worse emissions clogged eras. Are those "Unplugged idle screw ports" sucking in air? If so they need to be plugged. And what's with the ballast resister zip tied to the heater hose?
I seen timing chains wear to the point they where wearing into the timing chain cover. Also seen the one with timing chain tensioner that wore threw the plastic pads right into the metal behind it. The big blocks also used those plastic covered teeth that broke off and you would find them in the bottom of the pan. It's your truck so do with it as you please but it is from the one of the worse emissions clogged eras. Are those "Unplugged idle screw ports" sucking in air? If so they need to be plugged. And what's with the ballast resister zip tied to the heater hose?
The ports for the screws don’t seem to be acting as a vacuum leak. I used the propane torch method for leak testing once everything was running well and the only place I found a leak, which was a huge one was the PCV grommet which have sense been replace and solved.
The resistor? No clue to be honest, but it’s been there like that since I’ve had the truck. I suspect that’s some of Roy’s doing. I looked at it at one point, it’s a 1.2 ohm ballast that doesn’t ground when mounted so I left it where it was. Did it cause you to have a thought or idea? Admittedly, I’m still identifying a few connectors, and wiring colors to undeniably know that all components are present and accounted for.
that’s pretty much what I was thinking too on both the plastic teeth as well as leaving the trans in the truck. Torque converters a different story, while I’m in there I think I’ll toss a new one in while it’s easy and keep the original for inspection, if serviceable keep it as an on hand spare. I do however plan on also refreshing the transmission when the time comes to put the refreshed engine in, so all things are equal of sorts. Along with the powertrain and its accoutrement when prepared will be odds and ends like radiator, steering, shocks, all new rubber in the bay and fuel system, cleaned or new gas tank if needed. Those kinds of things.
Truthfully time and money are irrelevant because doing it right takes what it takes but like anyone else I’d rather be driving it then it being down 🤷🏻♂️.
I want it to be a truck nice enough to just hop in and go wherever whenever regardless of the temp out side, having to let it heat soak before it runs best or having to stay within range of a non ethanol station (yes it runs worse on standard pump) lol. And I’m especially thankful for all the knowledge and cumulative experience and help I receive here
😎
Your plan sounds good although I would hold off on the converter swap. If your transmission has trash in it, some is in the converter. When you swap a new one in, it will get into that one. Rebuild your unit and put the old one back and trash from it will get into the transmission. At 77K, your transmission unit ought to be good still. Front seals go from age as well as wear. Swap the seal, but reuse the old converter. Just be sure it sits all the way in with three clocks. If you don't seat it properly, you'll wipe the front pump out when you start the engine.
When I looked at what my engine wiring should be, it doesn’t show to have a resistor, I just haven’t figured out how to solve the discrepancy correctly yet. Because it doesn’t look added in. 🤔
and as kind of a side thought, what are your recommendations as far as rebuild kits, or refresh kits? Brands to go with, or stay away from for sure sort of thing? Not 100% on the white plug, anyone know for sure? Could simply be for a component that’s no equipped on my engine?
Last edited by Polye86_RoyalSE; Jan 24, 2021 at 07:28 PM.
When I looked at what my engine wiring should be, it doesn’t show to have a resistor, I just haven’t figured out how to solve the discrepancy correctly yet. Because it doesn’t look added in. 🤔
and as kind of a side thought, what are your recommendations as far as rebuild kits, or refresh kits? Brands to go with, or stay away from for sure sort of thing? Not 100% on the white plug, anyone know for sure? Could simply be for a component that’s no equipped on my engine?
The ignition ballast resistor is usually on the firewall. The resistor in your photo is wired to the choke pull off heater. This gets the choke open faster for better economy. It's usually a little button resistor to act like a timer.
The ignition ballast resistor is usually on the firewall. The resistor in your photo is wired to the choke pull off heater. This gets the choke open faster for better economy. It's usually a little button resistor to act like a timer.
then my question becomes does my system even require on sense it’s not on my wiring diagram are there aren’t any vacant bolt hole on my firewall?
it’s not. The rod was bent from the get go.and I believe the thermal aspect of it has been long gone so it doesn’t adjust at the rate it should. The truck did supposedly suffered over heating issues at some point in its history. It’s on the parts list. presently I just treat it like a no choke, and hold the idle on start up with my foot for about a minute depending on
outside temp. Warm/hot starts are near instant when you bump the key.
