Help! No Instruments Lights and Starter!
I pulled the valve covers on this new to me 1983 W250 (318 four barrel) as the passenger side valve cover gasket was ancient and leaking all over the exhaust manifold. While I was at it, I soaked the covers to remove the sludge buildup, examine the valve train(fair amount of sludge) and paint the covers to freshen things up under the hood. I used a degreaser, steam and micro shots of hot water from a garden sprayer to remove the buildup of grease on the exhaust manifold and along the back of the firewall. My fear is I got something somewhere wet and/or disconnected but I cannot find a thing. I also replaced the old plugs, wires, cap and rotor as they were all quite old. What would knock out my instrument panel and starter? I have headlights still and fan function -thats it? Starter is over on the driver side where I was not directing any water . . any thoughts? Battery reads 12.4 volts currently -thanks!
Last edited by James Jamie Soule; Oct 7, 2020 at 10:08 PM.
Well dang, was hoping to wake up to some good information. Might check around the steering column today. My column has a broken shift lever (BTW if anyone has a shift column for sale (automatic for an '82-'84 w250 tilt in black please contact me). It has made starting problematic at times . . . Would non contact with a neutral safety switch cut power to dash too?
Neutral safety switch will prevent it from starting, but, won't affect the dash. That's gotta be something else going on. Bad ground? Bad power feed? I just don't know enough about the older trucks to be of much help.
Thanks HeyYou, always appreciate your help! Found a broken red wire (power) off the positive battery cable at the Duck foot (apparently these unions are known as "duckfoot "in the Dodge fusible link community) - looks like a repair was attempted before badly . . . . so now on to repair this wire. Leftover wire is maybe an inch and 1/4 off the duckfoot, not sure if I have enough good wire to splice into . . . . fusible links . . . . .never fun.
Found it! Fusible link coming off positive battery cable was a crumbly broken mess only a few strands holding it all together - made a quick test jumper and voila, crank and all instruments back! - I do remember moving cable several times over the past few days which no doubt took its toll. Now I have to replace with fusible link, but the question is what size. The bad news is I have to cut into the duckfoot to expose usable wire or add on a 3 wire block? Not sure what is considered acceptable here . . .










