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1990 d150 no start

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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 11:36 AM
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How old are the plugs/wires/cap/rotor? What brand plugs are in it? Pulled any to have a look? Do you have a scanner that can read live data??
 
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 11:43 AM
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Cap, rotor distributor and coil are all new. Plugs are fairly new ac delco. I don’t have a scanner that will do obd1
 
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 12:06 PM
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Standard copper plugs?

Getting good spark to the cylinders?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesgrant9399
Cap, rotor distributor and coil are all new. Plugs are fairly new ac delco. I don’t have a scanner that will do obd1

The truck is it's own scanner. That's one thing about Mopars, the key dance will read any codes. They will appear as the check engine light flashing. Once then twice, is 12. It means the battery has been disconnected in the last 50 to 100 key starts. 5 then 5 is 55 and is the end of test. You will always get that. The dance is to turn the key on, then off, then on, then off then on and leave it on. Do not bump the starter. This tell the computer to go into self test mode. This will also work on newer OBD II systems most years and will read the code in the odometer.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
The truck is it's own scanner. That's one thing about Mopars, the key dance will read any codes. They will appear as the check engine light flashing. Once then twice, is 12. It means the battery has been disconnected in the last 50 to 100 key starts. 5 then 5 is 55 and is the end of test. You will always get that. The dance is to turn the key on, then off, then on, then off then on and leave it on. Do not bump the starter. This tell the computer to go into self test mode. This will also work on newer OBD II systems most years and will read the code in the odometer.
That will show codes, if there are any, problem becomes, the issue may not set any codes....... that's why being able to read live data is pretty much essential.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 12:29 PM
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I have done the key thing twice and so far there are no codes appearing....in fact nothing at all. I’m concerned this may be an ecm issue.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 12:32 PM
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And yes sir I have put a spark tester on every cylinder and the spark looks good. That’s why I’m so confused. We have spark, and fuel. So compression does seem like the next step. But my brain tells me that wouldn’t be an all of sudden thing.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 01:12 PM
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Does it fire at all?

I would suspect you are getting too much fuel, or not enough.... pull a couple plugs, are they wet?
 
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Old Dec 19, 2020 | 09:41 AM
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When you first turn the key to "on" the check engine light should come on then go out. This tells you it's working and not a blown bulb. Check the bulb and make sure it's good then see if it comes on. If it does then it should at lease give you 55 code(key dance) meaning end of codes. And you don't have to have it running to check timing. If it's cranking a timing light on #1 wire will fire when it's supposed to. You need two people or jump the starter relay while you are checking it(key on of course).
 
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Old Dec 19, 2020 | 04:24 PM
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Non of the plugs are wet at all, I thought fuel at first but it acts exactly the same even with starting fluid. I can unplug the injectors all together and just try starting fluid or gas and it acts identical. It is firing and trying to start just won’t actually start and run. Is there a different way to test fuel pressure other than how I had previously mentioned? And I have to assume the check engine bulb is burned out due to the fact it’s no illuminating at all. I’ll get it replaced Monday and see if it works then. I appreciate all your help so far this has been a pain
 
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