1990 d150 no start
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Registered User
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 13
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From: oklahoma
Ok guys, so the distributor had already been replaced, BUT as I was double checking timing and turning it over I noticed the distributor was rocking back and forth. I pulled it and found the shaft appeared to be bent. It was a reman so I took it back and received a replacement. After installing it, setting initial timing. The old girl fired up like nothing was ever wrong. I want to thank you for all your help and suggestions!!!
Grand Champion
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 721
From: S.W. Indiana
Ok guys, so the distributor had already been replaced, BUT as I was double checking timing and turning it over I noticed the distributor was rocking back and forth. I pulled it and found the shaft appeared to be bent. It was a reman so I took it back and received a replacement. After installing it, setting initial timing. The old girl fired up like nothing was ever wrong. I want to thank you for all your help and suggestions!!!
- By golly, that would do it. I usually check remanufactured parts before install when I can. Quality control should have caught a bent shaft though. I would think they spin them when rebuilt. Evidently not.
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Joined: Apr 2024
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1990 Dodge ram 150-no start/no instrument cluster lights= relay bad
Hey guys, new here. So I have looked and looked through this forum for no start help. And I have found a ton of information but none so far that fits my exact issue. I have a 1990 dodge d150 with a TBI 5.2. One day it just stopped running and wouldn't start. It cranks and tries to start but will not. I checked fuel pressure coming into the TBI and I get 50psi. Coming from the fuel return out of the TBI I have 14.5. We replaced the distributor, cap coil and rotor. There is spark and there is fuel. The spray from both injectors is uniform and has a nice cone. I don't believe it to be a fuel issue at all. I can use starting fluid and there is no change.
I checked timing, rechecked TDC, unplugged coolant sensor on intake manifold. I used a meter and checked the TPS and everything seems to check out ok, but again it will not actually start and run. It will fire and try to start continuously but just wont actually run. The IAC seems to be working it moves while its trying to start.
I can unplug the injectors and just use starting fluid to double check that its not an over or under fueling issue but the result is exactly the same.
I also wanted to add there are no codes showing up at this time at all. I have even tried to disconnect the negative cable and reconnect to see if there were any changes without any luck.
I have researched and researched but i can find no spark issues, no fuel issues, ads issues and so on but like i said so far nothing that fits this scenario. Thank you for any help you can provide. I don't want to throw money at it just to see if I find a fix.
I checked timing, rechecked TDC, unplugged coolant sensor on intake manifold. I used a meter and checked the TPS and everything seems to check out ok, but again it will not actually start and run. It will fire and try to start continuously but just wont actually run. The IAC seems to be working it moves while its trying to start.
I can unplug the injectors and just use starting fluid to double check that its not an over or under fueling issue but the result is exactly the same.
I also wanted to add there are no codes showing up at this time at all. I have even tried to disconnect the negative cable and reconnect to see if there were any changes without any luck.
I have researched and researched but i can find no spark issues, no fuel issues, ads issues and so on but like i said so far nothing that fits this scenario. Thank you for any help you can provide. I don't want to throw money at it just to see if I find a fix.
Relay is bad its under the hood, is a 4 prog relay that is used for starter. Also completes circuit for cluster and ignition switch.