So some of you have read the qualms I have with my truck. Today I picked up the parts to replace the timing chain, in a willing and able last ditch effort to fix my ESA behavioral issues before I fully commit to doing my spiced up rebuild.

Considering the **** weather we’re all having and Covid keeping some areas shops to be closed or limited services. I was considering trying to make a video up on the YouTubes of doing the replacement it. Below is how I came to the conclusion. If it gets positive feedback I’ll go for it and if not I’ll just bang it out.

Since my trucks completely stock, and I have the FSM I figured doing a simple step by step video with specs and tips for doing it quickly, correctly, and affordably. I’ve got a friend with a two car building that’s open and easy to work in and would be simple enough to take the extra time to film without having to deal with the outdoor wind noise or temperatures. Since maintenance date on our older vehicles is hard to find or expensive to buy figured a link could be posted in the how-to’s or how to easily find it on YouTube.

Think it’d be worth the help to anyone?

 

If you video it, people will watch.

 

I would say it's probably been done, Have a search on youtube.

 

Oh, I know it’s been done 🤔. I’ve been combing through YouTube since I got the truck looking to anything I could find on various topics. There’s plenty in the way of vaguely made bits and pieces. My thought was that when searching for “D150” “small block mopar” “318 rebuild” so forth and so on, but there’s not much by means of ‘Instructional videos’ per say. Finding well documented maintenance instructions are scarce, with the exception of a few you-tubers like 318WillRun, JasonExplainsThings, JustMoparJoe, and a couple others.

I just thought that I’d like to try making a clean, clear, concise step by step instructional video with bolt sizes, torque specs, and common practices that would yield a quality repair. Not just “al’right, pull the hole front end loose, check a couple marks, slap it back together in reverse order” but more of a
”After removing radiator, drive belts, and fan begin with removing power steering if so equipped. You’ll need an ______. There are ___ bolts located x-y-z etc etc etc.”
“when reinstalling, torque for these bolts are ___, and be sure you ____”

ehhh I guess I just have the urge to try and make an all inclusive Repair Video, rather then just quick glance at a torn apart engine with no context other then “yup my chains bad, here it is back together, see y’all later.” 🤔

 

you are WANTING to keep the ESA ignition? WHY? and the timing chain will not make that ignition system, any better! (not saying a 30-some year old engine wouldnt benefit from a timing chain job) but that ESA ignition is junk/

 

Well my ESA is actually functional and when weather’s above 40 runs like a champ, Considering that 3/5’s of the time if an electrical components test good, in my experience, that leaves a mechanical problem. Since my distributor was Mechanically shot (shaft bearing play over-limits, reluctor would touch pick up intermittently) a replacement distributor resolved 90% of the hesitation I was having. Then while setting timing there is the occasion blip of being off 3-4 degrees. Thus indicating the possibility of the timing chains poor condition.

Now, by that logic since the timing chain controls the cam, oil pump drive, and distributor drive (which it does) that also effects valve opening and closing events. Which in-turn effects vacuum quality/ consistency, this then in-tern doesn’t allow the ESA to reliably provide consistent and smooth ignition table due to lack of a smooth vacuum signal. (Same thing that would happen to a boost control system on a modern turbocharged application, vaguely speaking).

Sooooooo, long-wind explanation aside, I’d like to leave it in for the time being and get the truck properly running on its own equipment before making major changes to HOW it operates. Otherwise I’d end up dumping unnecessary funds on things that have no effect or could even make a symptom or condition worse. You’re absolutely right!, at 78k on the completely original engine, a timing chain is technically past due, as well as being a cheap repair that if it works is awesome, truck runs great and I can take my time building the transplant engine. If it doesn’t I’m only out $60 and a jug of coolant. Vs just being like “screw it, $600 ignition swap, $800-1600 full rebuild depending on parts used, Woooo! New Truck!”

 

MSD6A will do wonders for your ignition, You need a standard mechanical/vacuum advance distributor though.

 

I see you already bought a different distributor.
weird that you had so much play in your old one with such low mileage. Only 78k? Sure it wasn't 178 or even 278k? Hard to say with the 5 digit odometer.
A vacuum advance distributor won't cost anything more than what the one you bought, did. And whether you went with a factory style mopar ignition or an hei gm style, (can use the same distributor for either, but you gotta have one with timing advance capabilities) you're not out much at all, and a carb with a port for powered vacuum to run the vac advance can, it sure would not have cost $600. No way. You don't need a mallory or MSD box to accomplish this, that's the only way I see a conversion costing anywhere near$600.
And you'd have much more reliable ignition setup.
But then again I thought I read about "transplant engine" coming, maybe you're saving the upgrade for that? I can see that.
But then again if it does only have 78k unless it has had like zero maintenance, it is unlikely the engine in there now would need much at all besides maybe a few gaskets, and a good tune up. A 318 will easily go 200k if maintained.
Granted your timing chain is 34 years old and most likely has a nylon toothed cam gear, I do think replacement for the timing chain set is a great idea, certainly won't hurt.
I did the one in my 78 Fury's 318 at around 45k, because I was 5 bolts away, having had to replace the water pump anyways. Nylon gets brittle and likes to break from heat/cool cycles but also from age. My suggestion would be a double roller style of chain.

 

Truthfully, I believe my mileage to be accurate since the title mileage matched the odometer. As well as the fact that my aunt whom had possession of it before me is a cop, so I doubt she’d have given her fathers truck to her nephew under false documentation or pretenses. And Yes, the truck from my understanding did get neglected in the maintenance department severely. Because my grandfather drove it so little that all it probably ever got was the occasional oil change (date on the air filter I pulled out during the initial tune up had a date on it of September 1997.) Having said that, the part about a $600 ignition system does pertain to the transplant engine, and was a rounded up number for the price + shipping of an FBO set up. While I could use oem replacement parts on the current configuration to convert it (and have those parts already aside from the distributor and ECU harness lead), I’d like to see the truck work as close to correct before I start making alterations. Burned money stupidly that way before on other vehicles I’ve had early in my automotive exploits, yet still had a **** poor running vehicle. I completely feel you on the ‘while in here’ maintenance of that water pump, I’ll be doing the same. As well as replacing two of the pulleys that have a bit of a wobble to them.

but for clarification, my plan at present in a nutshell if a full rebuild happens is...

new timing chain, water pump, thermostat, rear-most passenger-side freeze plug, two pulleys, and all associated gaskets for whatever is R&R’d. The timing chain kit I picked up is the Cloyes double roller. As well as a Murray water pump. And if I put it all together and it’s no better, then it’s truly time to pull it and give it the full refresh it deserves. In which case it’ll end up with spread bore carb, Intake manifold, higher compression pistons, mild cam, refresh the 999 trans, stretch out the ring/pinion ratio, and a slightly taller tire, all new brakes, rebuild the driveshaft U-joints, drive it.