Awesome! Once I make sure that your carb or one that basically identical is what’s in my service manual I’ll send the pictures of the adjustment pages.

also, that’s your ESA computer and it can be deleted. The one on my trucks the same system, but being 86 is a different computer. Mine is mounted in my fender rather then my air cleaner, but serve the same function.

is what you’d have to do is get a distributor that has a vacuum/mechanical advance. An ECU module, resistor, and the harness pigtail to fit the ECU. There’s a page in my FSM I’ll post here in a second that shows a very simple wire up. And since I have the same parts (minus the distributor and harness) for my truck I can show you what they look like. Or even do some parts checking and post parts list with prices. The hardest thing to find is going to be the pigtail. I have to order one cause no one carries it in stock around me.


don’t pay much attention to parts location so much as what wires go to what.

 

Ok awesome! Thank you! I am relaying and forward this info to my friend that will be here tomorrow.

 

Since I don’t know what parts store chains you have around you, I’ll simply give descriptors with ballpark prices of the parts since there are both the spark assist and non-assist versions...

1 ea. Single pick-up, vacuum advance distributor. About $100
1 ea. Ballast Resistor 5 ohm. $7-$10
1 ea. Ignition Control Module. $25-$50
1 ea. Ignition Control Module pigtail. $50-$85
And potentially 1 ea. start/run relay. $25-$35

The prices were pulled from Advanced Auto Parts, with “Exact Fit” selected for your specific truck. So definitely check with your more mechanically inclined helpers to make sure you grab the right bits since I don’t know what your VIN digit is. (There were two options when entering your year make model so I guessed, but pricing and generic nomenclature should be the same.)

hope this helps, and if there’s anything else I can do to help let me know.

 

Awesome thank you!. My vin has the E. But I will show my friends this thank you very much!

 

A thought I just had was if all your adjustments and such are within spec, do an inspection on the fuel pump. The diaphragm could be going bad. Which would make it long cranking on cold start because it would have to pull fuel all the way back up. And could potentially be causing the carb to flood by nature of that fluid weight from a full tank we were pondering on.

 

My friend had figured out the chock was sticking some of them time so he took the carb home and cleaned it because it was pretty dirty and made sure I only use ethenol free gas next time I put more gas in. The throttle cable was also too tight and not clipped in and something was missing a little tiny hairpin clip that he was able to pull off of one of the extra old carbs I had bought for parts. He has it tuned great where I just have to turn my key and she starts right up. He put lucas oil lube in because I do/did have a slight knock from the 5 or 6th rod and he will be changing that along with oil pan gasket, rear seals, motor mounts and trans mount once they come in next week and she will be tip top shape! Then I will have him help me eliminate that electrical fuel box withe items you listed. Now I just need to bondo some holes from the trim and re-paint her flat black.


Thank you again so much for your help I am sure I will need it again. Bertha Blade Thanks you too!

 

Awesome! Glad to hear She’s doing good with some narrowed down TLC. I’m currently stacking parts to do timing chain, water pump, fuel pump, maybe a radiator. And general nut and bolt check.