When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1st Gen Ram Tech'93 & older Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve 1993 Rams and older. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
I have looked through every page of the haynes repair manual and looked at diagrams online. For the life of me I can't find out the name of this component connected from the rear axel tube to the wheel. I circled it in the image below. Any ideas?
The picture is a bit misleading due to angles of components. The yellow circle is on your brake line. It's a steel tube that goes from a junction block to the wheel cylinder. You can get stock tubing and bend it "gently" by hand. I have tubing benders to do that but if you're careful and don't bend the tube sharply, you can get one to fit by hand. Take your old one with you to get the right size end piece. There are both English and metric lines so be careful.
Now when I said angles were misleading, the angle on the steel brake line matches the other side of the axle tube and the emergency brake cable.
The picture is a bit misleading due to angles of components. The yellow circle is on your brake line. It's a steel tube that goes from a junction block to the wheel cylinder. You can get stock tubing and bend it "gently" by hand. I have tubing benders to do that but if you're careful and don't bend the tube sharply, you can get one to fit by hand. Take your old one with you to get the right size end piece. There are both English and metric lines so be careful.
Now when I said angles were misleading, the angle on the steel brake line matches the other side of the axle tube and the emergency brake cable.
Ah, no wonder my brakes can be pressed 30% down before engaging. Thank you so much!
Ah, no wonder my brakes can be pressed 30% down before engaging. Thank you so much!
You're welcome. One thought, I'll bet your rear brakes could use some adjustment. 1/3 on the way down is now normal for brakes. Well, except when I was racing. Try backing up fairly quick and hit the brakes hard a few times. This is how your self adjusting brakes work. I do it manually with brake calipers when I replace them. If you drive forward a lot and never back up much, the brakes wear but never adjust.
Note, when I drag raced, we would go with all drum brakes and take the self adjusters out. That slight drag would cost a fraction of a second and if you're closely matched, can cause you to lose. Just be sure the driver knows about it or else there are some dirty britches later.
Another update inbound on the 74 Power Wagon restoration. Initially, my goal was to keep most of the car as-is and just give it a little paintjob. However, as we began working on the truck there was so much oxidation that we decided it would be best to take the bed fully off the frame, realign the frame, sand it down, and repaint and seal to do a full restoration. Last monday, my friends down in Tijuana began the process starting by stripping everything off the truck and accounting for all the little clips and fasteners that are needed to be replaced to complete ($1k worth of fasteners to be exact). Although this approach will be more expensive, the end result will be worth it. We decided on the final color for the truck as well but im going to wait to post here until the big reveal! Question for the community. Are we fans of glasspacks or turbo mufflers?
My '96 with the 360 has the Flowmaster 44 system. It sounds GOOOOOOOOD! The main problem is the pipes run under the bed so the spare has to go in the bed as they block the under bed storage area.